Mangling Your Mangler

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venom
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Mangling Your Mangler

Post by venom » Fri Jan 11, 2002 2:02 pm

I thought it was high time to come out of the closet with what I've been doing with my Mangler. Here's a sample pic to see some of the mods. Most of them are cosmetic, but I did modify the differential to a full spool and I am planning on some suspension and tire upgrades.

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Post by Brandon » Sat Jan 12, 2002 4:11 am

Its a lot of fun working on rc trucks isnt it, I have a t-maxx that I am working on all the time my last up grades were full spools front and rear
dosnt turn worth a dam, but there is no stoppin it, I can take the front spool out in about 10 minutes so I can rally the hell out of it, it does awsome cookies without a locker. sometimes the rc truck gets the up grades before the bronco does just because all the parts are around $6-$20 wish lockers were that cheap for my bronco, still saving up for those. I like the paint job. :D have you thought about fabricating some prerunner bumpers with a tire carier and some jerry cans, hell maybe a little electric winch to. :lol: just an idea. let us know of any other alterations you come up with.
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T-Maxx

Post by venom » Mon Jan 14, 2002 12:44 pm

Funny you should mention the T-Maxx. I hadn't been into RC's at all until I got my Mangler a month ago. Since then, I've got out surfing on the web and gone to the traxxas, t-Maxx, and Maxxtraxx sites. And after seeing those, I've got to say "daddy wants"!!! The T-Maxx and E-Maxx were also brought up on the D90 mailing list that I'm on too. It's fate, I tell you, I need one. Sowhat are the pros/cons of E-Maxx vs T-Maxx. Is it just the amount of time or is the T-Maxx more powerful too? It looks like it's about $375 to get into a T-Maxx. How much more would a normal person spend on upgrades like gearing, suspension, power, etc?

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Post by john » Mon Jan 14, 2002 1:39 pm

The T-MAXX is *the* way to go...Fuel powered and bigger than the E-Maxx. there's a guy in my 'hood that has one and it just rocks. electric doesn't hold a candle to the gas powered r/c's. I love 'em. I might be able to afford it if I sell both broncos :) :) :) :) :) :)

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Post by venom » Mon Jan 14, 2002 2:43 pm

My wife had the same narrow view about selling the real Bronco to get the T-Maxx. I kind of thought the T-Maxx and E-Maxx were essentially the same, just different power source. I'm thinking pretty strongly about getting one. I *need* another outlet for all this spare cash anyway.

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Post by Dennis » Mon Jan 14, 2002 10:03 pm

venom wrote: I *need* another outlet for all this spare cash anyway.
If it get to difficult for ya, just let me know. I know my wife could help out with that one :) :) :)
1971 Bronco * 4-Wheelin.com

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Post by Joker » Tue Jan 15, 2002 8:03 pm

My wife Joan bought me T-Maxx a couple years ago. It's overall the best R/C truck I've seen for a truck in its class. So far, I've changed the shock oil, added a $12 rear spool, and am currently installing a better motor. The stock ones will go 35 mph on pavement, but overheat rather easily, and have low compression.

Brandon, you'll have to let me know how that front locker works out. I hear they steer a lot harder, and tend to break front axles.

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Mangler Full Spool Mod

Post by venom » Wed Jan 16, 2002 5:14 pm

Below is the write up posted on the Broncofix mailing list by Kevin Garrett.

>As with everyone who has a Radio Shack Mangler you have noticed that the off road abilities are somewhat diminished by the ability of the vehicle to not spin both wheels as with that of an open differential. So I wanted to see if I could lock the rear axles together. Well I did it and now I can say that my Mangler can go places it could not go before. Although this upgrade makes the Mangler more fun to drive, I don't know if it is for everyone. There are some pros and cons to this upgrade. It is just like installing a spool in the rear end of the Bronco, you should expect the same results.

One last con would be that by dismantling your Mangler you will not be able to get it back together to run correctly. I speak from experience, however I now have it back together correctly and I am impressed with the results. I will explain what is needed to lock the rear end of your Mangler but, The instructions contained in this e-mail can be hazardous to your marriage and/or well being. Just as soon as you start to dismantle you will hear "What the *%%*&% are you doing?"

The main ingredient is glue (JB Weld) You will need a philips screw driver. I would make sure you have a good space to spread out all the parts while dismantling. You should also have a few containers to put all the screws. You will need to protect the surface as there will be grease involved with the removal.

Step 1-Remove the body
remove the 4 screws on the underside that allow the body to separate from the electronics. Be careful when removing the body as the antenna slides through it. At this time you can remove there rest of the body screws and commence with painting.

Step 2-Removing the rear end
Take off both rear tires and set aside. Be careful as there is a washer behind the screw that you don't to loose. Remove the screws holding the shocks on then pop off the shocks from the pivot point (note: you will leave the top of the shock on the main part of the vehicle, These screws have a washer on the screw and there will not be any others like it that you remove). At this time locate the pivot point of the rear axle assembly. There are two screws on either side of this pivot point, you will only need to remove one side. The side you remove will have a shaft attached to it. So pick a side and if a little cap comes off put it back on and remove the other side. This shaft will slide out of the rear end and now the rear will be hanging by wires.

Step 3-dismantling the rear end transmission
This part could be devastating so be careful. Remove the rear bumper and set aside. Turn the rear over to expose the five screws, you will need a long philips to access these(one of these will be next to the motor. Once all are removed the flip the rear over to the other side and locate the two screws that hold the cover to the gear selector servo (there are screws under this cover but you will not need to remove them). Now there are only two screws left before you can separate the transmission. These two screws hold the motor in place, once you remove the screws you can pull the motor out and set out of the way. Now you can prepare to pull the case of the transmission apart. Set the transmission with the servo side down. VERY CAREFULLY pull the casing apart, you will see some wires that go to a board and lots of gears. Try and keep all the gears together on the side that has
the servo. With the case separated you should have one half separate that you can work with. If not then you are going to have a PIA putting things back together.

Step 4-Locking the rear end
Spin the outer axle on the case you are holding (not the one with the gears attached to it) you will notice one gear rotating inside of the housing. On the outer part of this gear you will two screws this piece is the differential. Pull on this housing and is will come off of the gear. With the housing removed you can take the two screws out and remove all the gears from the differential. Clean all the grease off and get your glue out. Place a small amount on the outer rim of the outer gear and place it back in the differential, wipe off any excess that oozes out to the outside. Then place some more glue inside the housing and insert the two gears that are on the metal shaft, make sure there is enough glue around all the gears and the gears mesh. Don't be bashful to use allot of glue because at this point there is no return. now put the last outer gear in and put some glue on the outer edge of this gear. Put the cap on and install the two screws. Let this dry for a bit and put it back in making sure it meshes and locks in with the gear.

Step 5-Putting everything back together
This will be almost the same as removal but there are a few things
you need to watch out for at this point. First there are three washers (two large and one small) all are on the shafts of the larger gears but might have come off and left in the opposite housing put them back on the shaft if they are not there. You will also notice two springs on the inside of the casing, there are two small black pieces that need to sit inside these springs but they should be installed on the two metal shafts by the gears. Now be careful and pull the board out and place in the slots in the opposite case. Slowly press the top piece down being careful and noticing that the gears need to mesh and the axle needs to go into the square slot. Once you get the case together you should place one screw in to hold everything together.

Step 6-Putting things back together
Install the motor, put all screws back in. Put transmission back onto main truck and install the shocks. Test vehicle to make sure it will shift correctly. Put body back on and go have fun.

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Post by hest » Wed Jan 16, 2002 5:46 pm

Hmmm....

I got my kid a Traxxas Rustler for Christmas. It's an off-road racer instead of a 4x4, but it's still a riot, and it hauls a$$. The advantage to electric is that we (yeah, I borrow it a lot) can use it indoors. Chased the cat down the stairs with it a couple of times till she figured out she could just jump over it and it couldn't get back *up* the stairs. The disadvantage of 2wd. Traxxas' stuff is really well made though, and the local rc store has spare parts. He is now scheming on an E-Maxx. The disease has been passed on from father to son...

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T-MAXX

Post by Brandon » Sat Jan 19, 2002 3:52 am

Today I totaled the Maxx :( , broke it in half but man was it a cool wreck :D . I was going about 40 mph down a straight strech of road then el smacko
right into a parked car tire :? . Just the slightest bump in the road at that speed spells disaster. The Maxx didnt even bounce it stopped right there cant say the same for the suspension and chassis they kept on going. damage report: front driveline, aluminum chassis, steering servo, front L & R axles, steering linkage, throttle linkage, bumper, shock tower, 2 of the 4 front shocks, chassis braces, & both turnbuckles 8O . The nose of the body was completly crushed in but popped right back in place with out a crack go figure :roll: . Most of the parts I allready have for back ups. there goes my parts inventory. oh well gotta pay to play I guess. or drive it like its yours and not someone elses :idea: . I am in the market for a new aluminum chassis if anyone has a spare? I thought not :lol: . I will start rebuilding it in a couple of days, I will have pictures of the after math in a week or so if anyone is interested :wink:.


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Post by TCheney » Wed Jan 23, 2002 2:08 pm

I just ordered the Mangler "body assembly" from Radio Shack. I'm thinking I might do the Clodbuster/Bigfoot conversion. I wasn't impressed with the stock underpinnings on the Radio Shack chassis. Can't miss the opportunity for glory at Son O' Beach 6 in the Mangler event!!

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T-MAXX/MANGLER

Post by Brandon » Thu Jan 24, 2002 4:51 am

I havent seen the mangler personally, but do you guys know if it would fit on a T-MAXX ? The body measurements on my MAXX are 7"x17" what are the specs on the Mangler body? I would like to buy a mangler body and modify it to fit also. :D
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Post by Max » Thu Jan 24, 2002 6:07 pm

My avatar Thom.... neener neener!

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Post by Joker » Sat Mar 02, 2002 1:53 am

Brandon.
I know a few guys who tried to fit a Mangler body onto a T-Maxx unsuccessfuly. The wheelbase is wrong.

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