Centech Wiring Harness Install

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Formerjughead
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Centech Wiring Harness Install

Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:40 pm

Centech Wiring Harness Install

Much like all Bronco Upgrades it started innocently enough, with the idea of painting the needles on my gauge cluster, an inexpensive and snazzy upgrade. Little did I know that more than a week later I would have spent nearly $1,000.00 (US) on a new wiring harness. Of course if I would have just bitten the bullet and went right for the harness I would have saved more. Hey; it’s only money, right?

I researched what harnesses were out there, Painless, 4 Wheeling Junkie, Ron Francis and Centech. All had their good points and not so good points. I chose the Centech because it had the wires labeled every foot or so. The others used either a color code or a number code. Keeping it simple always seems to pay off.

Things you’ll need:

1. A couple of days………
2. A Multi Meter
3. Cordless soldering Iron……..gas; not batteries, solder…..electrical with lead.
4. Shrink Tubing……white, red & black…….more white than black.
5. 18-20 gauge spade connectors……the red ones, male and female.
6. Electrical tape…….both the wide stuff and the thin multi colored set.
7. New wire cutters and strippers
8. New Needle nose pliers
9. A sharp knife
10. New Oil Pressure sending Unit
11. New engine Temperature Sending Unit
12. ¼” x ¾” self tapping Sheet metal screws
13. 5/16” by ¾” Self tapping Sheet Metal screws
14. Zip ties
15. A “Handy Pack” of blade type mini fuses
16. “weather tight connector pin removal tool set”
17. This number on your speed dial: 610-754-0720 (Centech tech line)
18. Tail Lamp, Turn signal, backups lamps, 1157’s



You can rip out everything except for the wiring from the fan switch to the motor

All of the lights you can just unplug the harness, the other end you’ll need to cut off as close to the plug as possible. Do Not Cut The Plugs or ground wires off of the Rear Side Marker Lamps. Same goes for the Windshield Wiper Motor, the washer pump and the connector for the fuel tank.

If you take out the seats and undo the door straps life will be much easier. Take out your stereo and glove box liner while you’re at it.

Remove the Brown Wire from your heater switch; Remove your Emergency flasher switch, save the plug. Remove your Ignition switch and your Brake warning light (leave some wire on the brake warning light). Pull the wiper switch. You can reuse the switch. Pull your instrument cluster. Cut the wires for your neutral safety switch and your back up lamp switch, so that you have enough to work with; of course if you have small hands pull the connector off and leave enough wire to reconnect to. When I removed the plug from my Emergency flasher switch, the switch came apart and I ordered a new one from Wild Horses. While the UPS guy was less than 100 yards away I broke the switch. Loc Tite adhesive and a zip tie, on the old switch, works better than trying to weld the threaded collar back on to the new switch. Remove your alternator.

Under the truck, along the frame, where the wire runs you’ll want to be as careful as you can to leave the support clips.

Once you have all the wire out read the instructions again. They’ll make more sense and you’ll have more questions for Centech, or Lars Pedersen, or Quinn Dusenberry, or Chris Hockett, or Tom Dummer.


The Centech instructions are pretty straight forward; they do gloss over a few things though and some things just don’t seem right. So follow the instructions and you’ll be golden.


Figuring out the ignition wiring was the hardest part, for me. Thanks to Lars Pedersen I was able to muddle my way through it.


Some of the wire loom had to be undone , to re route wires, so things would lay flat:

Driver’s side firewall:

I finagled the junction where the dimmer switch and wiper motor wires are so the it would work better.

Voltage Regulator:
There is a green wire that has to be plugged into the “S” terminal. This is at the end of the loom next to where the red “Battery” wire comes out. It’s a plastic loom so there are only a couple of places where you have to cut the tape.

Wiper Motor:
These push up from behind the dash and go though a couple of holes and end up in the windshield frame. This is pretty easy. These wires are not protected so I used some plastic tubing to protect the wires where they went through the holes. Before I pulled the old wiring out of the windshield frame I tied the new wire to the end of it and was able to pull it through the frame.

Connect the new wires to the old “female” plug. Insulate your connectors and wrap the exposed wires with tape. Be sure and wrap a couple of layers any where you pass through the windshield frame or dash.

Wiper Switch:

Even though the kit came with a new wiper switch I wanted to use my old one.
The wire colors in the new harness match up to the old wire colors. You can replace them in the switch connector or just plug them onto the male spades of your old switch.

Gauge Cluster & Dash:

There are wires for the dash lights in the new harness. I spliced into the old connectors,
and they work


Tail Lights:
I re did my tail lights a half a dozen times before I could make them work. The problem was that I didn’t have the connection made at the steering column. Everything related to the lights in the back goes through the steering column.


And the Pictures:
Last edited by Formerjughead on Sat Jun 09, 2007 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:45 pm

The bare wire represents my choke wire. What you can’t see is the: Ignition Wire, Oil Pressure wire, and gauge cluster lighting wire that are fuzed to it. This is a pretty critical area.
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I think I found the problem50.JPG
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:46 pm

The black loop, next to the pink wire is for the AMMETER and the large red wire in the foreground has to pass through it. I cut the wire and used a “Protected Butt Splice” to make that happen and it seems to be working well. If your gauge is reading backwards reverse the direction of the wire going through the loop.
Attachments
back gauge cluster1-50.JPG
Back Of the Gauge Cluster
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:47 pm

You don’t need to remove the rear side markers. The Green wire is attached to the rear loom and the existing “old” connector just plug into it. Connect the new ground wire and replace the fastener in the “old” ground connection.
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side marker connection.JPG
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:48 pm

The new pig tail needs to be grounded to the tail light housing. I used an �e� clip to hold the ring connector to the taillight lens screw. If you wanted to you could also attach the ring connector to the housing with a sheet metal screw.
**********UPDATE***************
this connection lasted about a week. I attached the ground to the tail light bucket with a 1/4" sheet metal screw and it is working fine.
Attachments
Tailight Ground.JPG
Last edited by Formerjughead on Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:49 pm

This is what the connection blocks should look like;
Yellow = Brakes, Black w/ Red = Back up Lights, Brown = Turn signals,
Black = Ground
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tailight pig tail.JPG
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:51 pm

New Fuse Block in the Old Location

Voltage regulator

When looking for the “Green” wire to attach to the “S” terminal of the voltage regulator do not use the one with the pig tail already attached. The one you want to use is at the end of the loom next to the big red “Battery” wire. You have to route it back through the loom, or remount your voltage rgulator.
Attachments
voltage regulator.JPG
Mini Fuse Block.JPG
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:54 pm

The grey wire is the “fusible link”, the yellow wire comes from the voltage regulator, and the orange wire goes to the alternator. The violet “Start” wire is going to the “S” lug and the white “I TERM” wire is going to the “I” lug. The Red "Battery" Wire with the fusible link and the Yello "BT" wire go to the same post that the actual battery is connected to. Failure to get this right and your battery doesn't charge. That is a big slice of humble pie to swallow.
Attachments
solenoid.JPG
Last edited by Formerjughead on Fri Mar 23, 2007 3:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:56 pm

Dash to Windshield Routing

Using the new wires in the old wiper switch ; I didn't much care for the loks of the new switch
Attachments
wiper switch.JPG
wiper wires in frame.JPG
Dash to Windshield Routing
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:00 pm

Survey said to include this in the install:

The Grey wires are for the back up lights and they connect to the Tranny.
Coiled with them are the Brake Warning Lamp Wires. They have a lot of wire and I was too big of a chicken to cut the excess out; so I coiled it up.
Attachments
back up lights.JPG
ballast resistor.JPG
Ballast resistor and extra wires
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:04 pm

THe Steering column connection should be done before you do any of the turn signals or the tail lights. I waited to do it last and it took half a day to figure out my tail lights. The Brake lights and turn signals do not work if this connection is not made.

I have a replacement turn signal switch from Wild Horses and the colors match what Centech uses in their Directions for "Early Style". The same goes for the horn.
Attachments
steering column connection.JPG
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Post by firecat » Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:46 pm

I've been playing the same game, except my heater doesnt work, the alt doesnt charge and the gas gauge STILL doesn't work!! did you run into these problems too?
waddaya mean i'm not suppose to take it apart?!?!
73' 302, np435, 1" body lift,2 1/2 susp lift, 31 bfg a/t's centec harness, and more to come............

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Post by Formerjughead » Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:52 am

firecat wrote:I've been playing the same game, except my heater doesnt work, the alt doesnt charge and the gas gauge STILL doesn't work!! did you run into these problems too?
The problem I am having is: My stereo doesn't shut off with the key and the passenger side turn signal cuts off when you apply the stop lights. I think I have them both narrowed down I just need to "adjust" some stuff.
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Post by Puff Daddy » Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:57 am

Does your dome light work (if you have one)? After about 3 years, I've been able to work out all the kinks except that one.
Tom

Uncut '73, stock 302 w/Headers, Holley TA Carb, Centech Harness, Wildhorses 3.5 inch lift.

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Post by Formerjughead » Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:00 pm

Puff Daddy wrote:Does your dome light work (if you have one)? After about 3 years, I've been able to work out all the kinks except that one.
Don't have one and I don't have the "courtesy" lamps either
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Post by blazinchuck » Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:13 pm

Formerjughead wrote:The black loop, next to the pink wire is for the AMMETER and the large red wire in the foreground has to pass through it. I cut the wire and used a “Protected Butt Splice” to make that happen and it seems to be working well. If your gauge is reading backwards reverse the direction of the wire going through the loop.
Have any of you been blowing the interior/gauge light fuses yet...I did the same install and found the plastic bulb holders the problem. They would pop out of their hole in the gauge panel-then the bulb would pop out of the socket-then the wireand spring would pop out and ground to the panel. I ended up reuseing my old style bulb sockets(they were metal and stronger than those plastic ones.HTH-Chuck

nice write up"Formerjughead"!
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Post by brianholcomb » Thu Mar 22, 2007 4:57 pm

I chose the 4 wheelin junkie harness, I want to maintain my stock ignition switch. The C B A and S terminals (All part of the main plug) are pretty straight forward. The new harness has these 4 wires. Any idea what the male terminal on the outside of the switch is?
Brian

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Post by Formerjughead » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:11 pm

BRIAN HOLCOMB wrote:I chose the 4 wheelin junkie harness, I want to maintain my stock ignition switch. The C B A and S terminals (All part of the main plug) are pretty straight forward. The new harness has these 4 wires. Any idea what the male terminal on the outside of the switch is?
Brian
It's the "hot" leg to you brake proportioning valve. I didn't connect mine and put a vacuum cap over the "male" spade on the ingnition switch.

Brad
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Post by brianholcomb » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:17 pm

That was a quick answer. Does the proportioning valve function without the hot leg?
Brian

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Post by Formerjughead » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:31 pm

BRIAN HOLCOMB wrote:That was a quick answer. Does the proportioning valve function without the hot leg?
Brian
The only reason it has power to it is to power the idiot light on the dash. All the valve does is let you know if you are low on brake fluid or if you left the parking brake on. I had mine hooked up for about a minute and then the coolness wore off.

There is a pendlum in the valve that goes to one side or the other, like when there is a drop in fluid level or pressure in the brake system, creating a ground and completeing the circuit causing the lamp to light up. Chances are that the valve is stuck anyway and nothing short of replacing the valve is going to make the lamp go out unless you disconnect it.

Brad
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Post by Recko555 » Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:05 am

I have an H-bridge style valve for my brakes. The light comes off and on for me. Fix the leak in the line. Bleed your brakes and then push hard on the brakes. It re-aligns the switch in the H-bridge/proportional valve.

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Post by gmattorano » Fri May 18, 2007 9:55 am

Wow! I was trying to decide which wiring harness to buy, and thanks to "former jughead's" outstanding writeup here, I'm definitely going with the centech kit. Thanks for posting all this!
- Gino

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Ballast trouble with Centech

Post by V22SideShow » Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:27 am

Long long story short; she starts, runs, warms up, then dies. Go ahead and laugh, but after replacing the coil, amp, distro guts, I found the Ballast bad. The problem is I keep smoken the ballast. I replaced the ballast with a coil specific amp rating (1.35). What I see is 12 volts in the ballast, 6 out when cold. When it hits 12 volt out, the eng dies. I've shot the wires, but all reads right - cant find a short. I have a Centech harness, but believe I've got it wired wrong. My rub, Centech provides a trouble shooting diagram that differs from the installation. Specifically, install shows violet (from ignition sw) to blue (Amp). Trouble shooting shows blue wire to the "S" post on starter solenoid. We've tried both, different problem with troubleshooting diagram; eng turns and fires, but stalls. Can somebody make it stop?! :fedup:
SideShow

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Re: Ballast trouble with Centech

Post by jweeks1832 » Wed Aug 21, 2013 8:13 pm

V22SideShow wrote:Long long story short; she starts, runs, warms up, then dies. Go ahead and laugh, but after replacing the coil, amp, distro guts, I found the Ballast bad. The problem is I keep smoken the ballast. I replaced the ballast with a coil specific amp rating (1.35). What I see is 12 volts in the ballast, 6 out when cold. When it hits 12 volt out, the eng dies. I've shot the wires, but all reads right - cant find a short. I have a Centech harness, but believe I've got it wired wrong. My rub, Centech provides a trouble shooting diagram that differs from the installation. Specifically, install shows violet (from ignition sw) to blue (Amp). Trouble shooting shows blue wire to the "S" post on starter solenoid. We've tried both, different problem with troubleshooting diagram; eng turns and fires, but stalls. Can somebody make it stop?! :fedup:
had the same problem. bought an internally resisted full voltage coil (flame-thrower) and removed the ballast resistor. worked like a champ

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