NISSAN POWER STEERING UPGRADE

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Formerjughead
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NISSAN POWER STEERING UPGRADE

Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:30 pm

NISSAN POWER STEERING BOX UPGRADE

Finally bit the bullet and decided that the manual steering has to go. I crunched the numbers and realized that I could upgrade to power steering for a fraction of the cost of diet and exercise, besides gyms never have good beer anyway.

The Goods:

Power Steering gear box from a 1987 Nissan Pathfinder: $40.00
With the crazy metric banjo bolts, and about 4 inches of the lines running to them.
You should also grab the mounting bolts.

Lower Steering Shaft: $10.00
Nabbed from a 90 something Jeep Cherokee

Saginaw power steering pump: $20.00
The mounting bracket requires a die grinder to remove it from the pump.

Pitman Arm: $70.00
Superlift part #1108........you'll need to file out the index marks but she fits.

Hoses: $120.00
Gold Country Hydraulics, here in Chico, is going to weld standard fittings to the pressure line Banjo Bolt. The return line just needs to be ribbed.

Crankshaft and Waterpump pulleys 3 bolt crank ,4 Waterpump: $20.00 & Free
Found the water pump pulley at the wrecking yard and the Crank pulley at an engine shop being used as a pencil holder on the counter.

Saginaw Pump mounting and adjustment bracket for the 302: $100.00
Wild Horses

Upper Steering Shaft CV joint: $80.00
¾â€
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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:34 pm

Step #1

Remove the old box:

I left the wheels on the ground, removed the radiator, fan shroud and fan before I started. I also pulled the water pump and crank pulleys.

To get the old box out you’ll need to loosen the sleeve that holds the lower steering shaft bearing in place. This is located near the firewall close to where the steering shaft enters the steering column tube. It’s a ½â€
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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:36 pm

Step #2

Install the new box:

Be sure to test fit your pitman arm before you install the box to the frame. I had to file out the index marks on the output shaft and on the pitman arm.

The bottom two, of the existing, frame holes line up with the mounting holes in the Nissan Box. The upper back hole needs to be drilled. I mounted the box with the original Nissan bottom bolts and marked my top hole with a center punch. The problem is that there is reinforcing, for the stock hole, right where you need to drill through. It’s trial and error to get it right.

Once you get the hole drilled make sure all the bolts slip through their respective holes freely. I used the ones that I nabbed with the box; you’re going to dick them up and ruin the threads.

Pull the box back off and use the box as a template for your reinforcing plate that will go on the inside of the frame rail. Make sure the holes line up. I used 3/16â€
Attachments
output shaft & mounting holes.JPG
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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:39 pm

Step #3

Lower Steering Shaft

I nabbed this little goody from a ’90 something Jeep Cherokee Yuppie mobile. The lower CV joint fits the Nissan box perfectly. The upper CV is about 1 ¼ “ so it has to be removed. I used a die grinder, a 4â€
Attachments
Upper CV joint.JPG
Installed 1.JPG
Last edited by Formerjughead on Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:42 pm

Step #4

Mounting the Pump & Pulleys

I was able to nab a Saginaw pump from the wrecking yard. I have no idea what it came out of as it was laying on the floorboard of a chevy van.

I used the mounting and adjustment brackets from Wild Horses and mounted it according to their directions.

The critical part is making sure that the grooves in the water pump and crank pulleys line up and your belts run as straight as possible. There is no science or trickery involved, it just has to be right or it is wrong.

I will, undoubtedly, change out the “Sanford & Sonâ€
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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:44 pm

Step #5

Pitman Arm & Draglink

I did the TRO conversion using the 1 Ton Chevy Tie Rod and Draglink Ends. The size of the draglink ends prevented me from using the Nissan pitman arm. The pitman arm I found, which fit the best, was a “Superlift 1108 3â€
Attachments
Front.JPG
pitmman arm.JPG
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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:47 pm

Step #6

Pressure & Return Lines

This proved to be the biggest headache. In the end I had standard fittings welded to the ends of the Nissan lines. I am sure this is not the only solution. I was able to find another Nissan that used a slip fitting for the return line. When you have the pressure line made up take the pump with you as you’ll need a fitting for the pump end as well. I had my line made at 24â€
Attachments
adapted pressure lines.JPG
pressure and return line.JPG
box top.JPG
pressure line parts.JPG
Last edited by Formerjughead on Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:48 pm

Step #9

Success or Failure

Make sure that you have removed all of the tools, and extra nuts & bolts; you have left lying around the engine compartment and give everything one more check.

Reconnect the coil wire and check everything again.

Fire off the engine and let it run for a few minutes; from the safety of the cab.

Look and make sure everything is okay and there are no strange sounds.

Cycle the steering from lock to lock about a hundred times.

If the steering is not smooth or the pump sounds raspy you have the lines reversed.

Shut the engine off and check the fluid level in the power steering pump. If you removed the radiator check the coolant level and transmission fluid levels.

Drop it off the stands and check everything again.

The first drive will be strange, if you are converting from manual, be careful and go slow and easy. Take a trip around the block in both directions.

When you get back check everything again.

Happy Motoring
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Post by Stan » Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:57 pm

Glad the results turned out so well.
Makes you wonder what the hell the Frod engineers/ design team/ marketing strategy people were thinking when they didn't at leasr option PS sooner.
Stan
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Post by regshawn » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:34 pm

Nice to see you finally get it all put together! I bet there is a huge difference in your driving style now! I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here! Are you used to the new steering yet? :mrgreen:

Shawn

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Post by KManuel » Sat Jan 05, 2008 9:03 pm

regshawn wrote:I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn
Who wrote it for you?
'66 with 3.5" Duff lift, Disc Brakes, Family roll cage, 4X4X2 power steering, T/A 470 and maybe OBA.

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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:31 am

KManuel wrote:
regshawn wrote:I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn
Who wrote it for you?
Thats harsh............the kicker is that the power has been out, we just got it back at 4AM, 67 hours with no power. I wrote that running the computer off of my generator. Full MacGyver mode.

feeling much love for the steering. It even fixed the dancing ameter.......shortened that belt.

Brad
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Post by Allen » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:36 am

Juggy,

NICE write-up! I may be using this option for my sons 66 build-up!

Thanks
Allen
1970 Bronco, 5.0 SEFI/NV3550/dana 20, 5.5" total lift, 4whl PDB, Dana 44, BB 9", and alot more money!

1966 Bronco in a box

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Post by billie » Sun Jan 06, 2008 12:34 pm

This really should be put in the tech section.

Nice Job Juggie.

Cya
ZF-Done; 5.0 HO-Done. Stripped to the frame. The loooong road back begins!

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Post by regshawn » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:25 pm

KManuel wrote:
regshawn wrote:I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn
Who wrote it for you?
So what are you trying to say!?

Shawn

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Post by DirtDonk » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:40 pm

Stan wrote:Makes you wonder what the hell the Ford engineers/ design team/ marketing strategy people were thinking when they didn't at least option PS sooner.
Stan
The commitee spent all that time debating whether to go with the ram-assist power version or not.
If that's the case, I'm glad they waited!

Paul
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3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM :mrgreen:

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Post by bobb » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:02 pm

Nice write up!

It is good to know which parts fit with the Nissan steering box.

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Post by KManuel » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:18 pm

regshawn wrote:
KManuel wrote:
regshawn wrote:I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn
Who wrote it for you?
So what are you trying to say!?

Shawn
MARINE=STRONG BACK WEAK MIND

speaking from experience.....

just busting his chops.
'66 with 3.5" Duff lift, Disc Brakes, Family roll cage, 4X4X2 power steering, T/A 470 and maybe OBA.

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Post by regshawn » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:36 pm

OK, I get it now. Thought you were taking a shot at me, but it all makes sense now.
And yes that is funny.

Shawn
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Post by mkcj » Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:21 pm

I have had this set-up in my 68 for over 10 years now works great never forget was talking to one of the bronco houses and they said I must be mistaken because a nissan p/s would never work in a bronco. Great write up by the way

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Post by Formerjughead » Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:40 pm

Alright time for an upgrade update addendum. One of the things I was never very happy with, on this set up, was the ease of steering and the tendancey for it to "follow cracks" and the quickness of the set up.

Brian Holcombe told me about a company in Connecticut "Mullins Steering Gears" that sold a pressure reducing valve kit for the Saginaw Power Steering Pump; $17.00 +$7.00 shipping.
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Post by Cortez » Sat Sep 19, 2009 6:48 am

Juggy - I'm in the process of making this conversion and am stuck on the pitman arm issue. Will the pitman that you used work with the stock drag link or is this the point I have to commit to upgrading my steering too now? Just trying to do the ps conversion and one thing at a time due to cost. By the way I have this conversion in the bag for about $250 depending on how this pitman comes together. What a huge savings over the catalog systems.
'67 Hoss, 351W, broken bank account.

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Post by Formerjughead » Sat Sep 19, 2009 8:50 am

Cortez wrote:Juggy - I'm in the process of making this conversion and am stuck on the pitman arm issue. Will the pitman that you used work with the stock drag link or is this the point I have to commit to upgrading my steering too now? Just trying to do the ps conversion and one thing at a time due to cost. By the way I have this conversion in the bag for about $250 depending on how this pitman comes together. What a huge savings over the catalog systems.
It should. The only reason I used that particular pitman arm was because I was anxious to get this together. I am sure that if I had spent a few more hours in the wrecking yard I could have found a flat one off a stock application..........72-84 manual steering 2wd (I think). There is also a Jeep pitman arm that will work "Starkypdx" has the answer for that app.
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you might need this repair manual

Post by carzaholics » Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:22 am

Hey Guys, I am new to this forum and throught I would try to contribute. If anyone is looking for reapir manuals, owner manuals or service manuals for virtually any type of car, there is a FREE ebook at the address below. I asked him could I download and share it, but he said he prefers to have people come to the website. The site itself isn't the best, Sometimes there are annoying ads and surveys. The ebook is only a couple of pages, but it gives a list of places online where you can find almost any service and repair manuals, even for very old models and trucks. I would highly recommend to download it and keep it on your computer.

Website - http://ebook-files.info/freemanuals/

All the best
Anton

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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:33 pm

UPDATE

In my never ending quest to get this steering "right" changed out the pulley that was on the pump ( wich was 4 1/2" Diameter) and swapped it for a 6" diameter.....made a huge difference.

The next thing I did was remove the box and center the worm gear and set the lash. Although I thought I had done this before, it turns out that I was about 1/2 turn or 180 degrees from dead center.

All said and done it handles like my '07 F-150 now
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