removal of proportoning block possible?

Tie rods, steering box, drag link, alignment.<br />
What tires fit, brands, sizes, beadlocks, etc.

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bearskinner
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removal of proportoning block possible?

Post by bearskinner » Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:04 am

I just did a complete brake rebuild, and conversion from 4wdrum to f disc.all new parts, booster, master. I even put on new rear wheel cyls and replaced most of the brake lines. I still have a spongy pedal, and it was bench bled and the system has been bled out totally. The only original piece, except a couple hard lines is the brass proportoning block. can this be removed? I have a wildwood adjustable valve, with a dial. would this work in line for the front disc brakes and just plumb the rears straight thru? should I get a prop valve for f disc, rear drums? whats the best thing? Thanks

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Viperwolf1
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Post by Viperwolf1 » Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:15 am

The stock block can not cause spongy brakes. Either you still have some air or the rear drums are not adjusted out enough. Usually there is no need for a proportioning valve with front disk/rear drum.
Phil

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Post by Scodge » Wed Sep 28, 2011 12:13 pm

I did this same conversion a while back. What kit did you use, or did you source the parts individually?
Scott
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Post by DirtDonk » Wed Sep 28, 2011 12:52 pm

The stock one isn't even a proportioning valve. Just an "H-block" that houses a switch to turn on the dash mounted warning light.
However, yes, you can remove it if you wanted. Like Viper said though, that piece should not be causing any trouble unless it's leaking and allowing air into the system.

You always (in the case of an EB anyway) want to plumb a separate adjustable proportioning valve into the rear system. Not the front. You're not trying to reduce the ability to slow down, and the fronts contribute the most to that. You're trying to keep the rear brakes from locking up prematurely and losing some control and some braking power. That's all the "proportioning" part of the valve's duties covers.

Is the pedal actually spongy, or is it simply traveling farther down before getting to a solid stop?
If truly spongy, then there is either air in the system or some hoses somewhere are expanding under pressure. Since you replaced some at least, are there any soft hoses still original?
If only traveling too far, check the back brakes as Viper mentioned, or verify that the pedal rod is the same as original (if it's been replaced) and/or is compatible with the master cylinder.

And like Scodge, I'd like to know what you used. Since you converted to power at the same time, which master did you use and did you make all the proper adjustments required to the pedal linkages and such?

Paul
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Post by bearskinner » Thu Sep 29, 2011 1:14 pm

I replaced almost every component in the brake system. The f disc conversion kit was from the graveyard, all new with rubber hoses. the master, booster, mounting brkt linkage etc was purchased complete also, I dont remember from which co, but as a kit. I had to make almost all the steel lines as the connections were all bad, and the rear hoses are extended SS brake lines. I put new wheel cyls on the rear too. I know the rear brakes are adjusted correctly, as the E brake works perfectly, and I double checked them. The master extension rod sounds like the culprit. The pedal is pretty low to start, and they hold once engaged, but I'm in the middle of re doing fuel lines and cant start it up to play with it. I'm going to try and adjust the rod out more to give me more pedal, that makes the most sense. Thanks for getting me to rethink. I need to drive it more and stop working on it!
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Post by Scodge » Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:14 pm

You know your drums are adjusted properly when you rotate the wheel and hear them scrape a little bit. Otherwise, they are loose, and your e-brake isn't a good indicator. Did you do an old school pedal bleed on all four wheels, or did you use a vacuum bleeder? The vacuum bleeder gets you close, but the pedal bleed is the best way to be sure you get all the air bubbles out.
Scott
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Post by bearskinner » Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:29 am

We bled out each corner starting with the RR as its the furthest away from the master. nothing but clean clear brake fluid comming thru every hold. Thats what really had me confused. Now I wont be able to work on it till next week, but hopefully by adjusting the master cyl rod out all the way, that should make up for the bad pedal....Ill post after I give it a shot. Thanks for the advice, sometimes you need to step back, and look at what you just changed to see what where the problem is.

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Post by Tom Dummer » Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:13 pm

That second picture is sexy as hell :twisted:
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Post by bearskinner » Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:00 pm

The tie rods were pretty worn, so I did the rod end over conversion, all new springs, shocks, bushings, then the disc conv with new bearings and seals. the steering is great, real tight and responsive. I tried rolling up and down the curb at speed, and it is real smooth. I dont want to go too far from the garage yet, till I get the brakes working fine. but yes your right, it does look kinda sexy!

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Post by Scodge » Fri Sep 30, 2011 6:22 pm

Those new BFG's make me want to go get some new tires.
Scott
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Post by bearskinner » Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:41 pm

there spares off my superduty, so I just got a set of 17" wheels. The tires are 285/70/17s so there 33x11.50x17s and a much more sturdy tire than a 15. seems like 17-20s are better and easy to find, as everyone takes the stockers off and goes bigger.

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