Chevy Tie Rod Conversion Info

Tie rods, steering box, drag link, alignment.<br />
What tires fit, brands, sizes, beadlocks, etc.

Moderator: Bfix Staff Members

User avatar
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 651
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2002 7:45 am
Contact:

Chevy Tie Rod Conversion Info

Post by venom » Thu Jan 17, 2002 9:13 am

My pics:
http://www.broncofix.com/quinn/scoutknuckle.html

Pete Wagner's pics:
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/gr ... ierod1.jpg
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/gr ... ierod2.jpg
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/gr ... ierod3.jpg

Coby's pics:
http://www.vintagebronco.com/coby/tierod/

Great pics from a guy using this setup on a Jeep Commanche pickup:
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_1.jpg shows tie rod height w/Scout knuckles
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_2.jpg
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_3.jpg

1) 1.375 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with 0.812" ID or smaller will work and you can also go to a larger OD for additional strength. It is not receommended to go beyond 1.50" OD though.

2) 1.5" .120 DOM for sleeving (optional and only works with 1.25" OD tubes)

3) Tie rod tube should be about 39" for stock early Bronco knuckles (41" for 76-77 disk knuckles) and drag link should be about 25.25" for high misalignment ends and 27" if using the tie
rod ends for the drag link). If using the F150 box and the high misalignment ends, then the drag link tube length should be 18.75".

4) 7/8" x 18 UNS special left and right hand taps
Travers Tool Co, Inc
14-056-182 (plug style)7/8-18 right hand $20.47
McMaster-Carr
2595A424 7/8-18 right hand $49
2595A999 7/8-18 left hand $108

5) Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/getp ... uctID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

6) Rod ends
-pass side tie rod (with hole and regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-driver side tie rod (regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-pass side drag link end (high misalignment)
-pitman arm side drag link end (high misalignment)

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end

Autozone Online Prices (1/26/04):
ES2233L $21.99 pass side tie rod (~7" exposed)
ES2234R $24.99 driver side tie rod (~2.5" exposed)
ES2027L $23.99 high angle drag link end (~4.5" exposed)
ES2026R $19.99 high angledrag link end (~6.5" exposed)

7) big end of the tie rod is .78" and the small end is around .67"

8) The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't. I searched high and low for the source for the jam nuts and have only come up with the Chevy part numbers which are 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand). They are about $7 each.
Last edited by venom on Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:09 am, edited 4 times in total.

User avatar
hest
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 801
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 4:48 pm
Location: NorCal

Chevy Tie Rod Conversion Info

Post by hest » Thu Jan 17, 2002 12:06 pm

Quinn-

Funny how Autozone's prices have dropped on a couple of those- proof that pricing isn't always subject to entropy, unlike my desk.

FWIW I paid less than $10 with tax at the local GM dealer for those nuts. Small town dealership and they didn't have them in stock, but they showed up the next day.

User avatar
Broncmarc
BFix Starter
BFix Starter
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2002 12:24 pm
Location: Cincinnati, BroncOhio
Contact:

Post by Broncmarc » Thu Jan 17, 2002 12:31 pm

Prices for the tie rod ends were cheaper here at Autozone. Total for all 4 was about $80.

Forget about the tapered reamer from Snap-On. It lasted me 2 holes! The Goodson one looks like the same thing. I was told later that these are finishing reamers. They are only ment to clean up a hole.. not to put the taper in it. I ended up searching all over town for someone that could ream my last 2 holes. Took me 2 weeks, but I found a guy with a welding shop in his garage that had them. Cost me and extra $40 to get those done. Don't forget that BC Broncos also sells the reamers. http://www.bcbroncos.com/ If I was doing it again, that's what I would get.

If you don't want to spend the $$$ on the taps, you can get the order the tubing already threaded from http://www.rockstomper.com/ Look under Rock Rods.

- Marc Reiter
Cincinnati, BroncOhio
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/
BroncOhio - http://www.broncohio.com/

User avatar
dngl
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 1059
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2002 4:49 pm
Location: The Brooklyn Zoo
Contact:

Post by dngl » Thu Feb 28, 2002 2:13 pm

When you sleeve one piece of tubing with another, is it best to match the OD of the inner with the ID of the outer, or does the outter have to be just a touch larger (or inner a touch smaller). If it is just a touch, how much of a touch? A .1X touch or a .01X touch?

I should have just bought these tie rod and drag links from Quinn. There is a penalty to be paid for stubbornness.

dngl
dngl
'74 "Weeble" -
'73 "Wobble"
'dngl "falls down"

welndmn
BFix Built
BFix Built
Posts: 152
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 4:00 pm
Location: Livermore, CA
Contact:

Post by welndmn » Fri Mar 01, 2002 10:42 am

I have to Goodson, i have done about 4 trucks, some just moving it on top of the axle still cutting great, i just keep it really wet.

When i got my tie rods (moogs) some came with nuts some did not, they were around 8 bucks from GM, but Quinn has them as well, i had to wait 2 weeks for mine to come in
71 Lead Sled, 38's D44 NP435 and a thing that goes PSSSST

User avatar
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 651
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2002 7:45 am
Contact:

Tie Rod Conversion Info

Post by venom » Wed Mar 06, 2002 6:55 pm

Dan, you will want to purchase a tube with about 0.005" bigger ID than the OD of the inner tube. If you don't, you will end up with a press fit to get the 2 pieces together. You may anyway due to the tube sections being slightly out of round or not quite straight. Personally, I think the 2 piece approach is a waste of time though. If you want 1.5" OD stuff, then buy it in the first place. It will be stronger than the sleeved approach and far easier (and cheaper) to put together.

And yes, you should have bought them from me. But look at how much you're learning!!

Broncrick
BFix Starter
BFix Starter
Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 4:59 pm
Location: Sacramento

Post by Broncrick » Thu Mar 07, 2002 9:31 am

Ok guys, just finishing up a F100 box install. I am going to have to shorten the drag link I know (Rock Rod over), but the damn pitmans I have are tapered from the bottom (7* chebby), and I need to mount it over the arm on new box :cry: Hmm taper from the top and add inserts? get new arm? always something!
Rick Esterly, 69 EB
www.4x4wire.com
www.RCRC4X4.com

welndmn
BFix Built
BFix Built
Posts: 152
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 4:00 pm
Location: Livermore, CA
Contact:

Post by welndmn » Thu Mar 07, 2002 10:48 am

what you need rick?
Don't put the drag link on top of the pitarm, that makes the drag linkput a lot of force on the steering box when you flexing ( I know :( ), get a new Pitman arm, the Full size cherokkes are close, the Bronco 2's and rangers are close as well, they might need some reaming out, if so you can use my reamer
71 Lead Sled, 38's D44 NP435 and a thing that goes PSSSST

Broncrick
BFix Starter
BFix Starter
Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 4:59 pm
Location: Sacramento

Post by Broncrick » Thu Mar 07, 2002 4:31 pm

Mark, looking at keeping my Trac/Drag in the same line, and getting things up out of harms way :D I guess if I use a drop bracket for the trac (have it) I might achieve the same.... will have to look more at it.

Thanks~
Rick Esterly, 69 EB
www.4x4wire.com
www.RCRC4X4.com

IronBenderII
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 2063
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 5:43 pm

Post by IronBenderII » Fri May 16, 2003 4:04 pm

Here's the prices I was just quoted...

ES2233L 19.99
ES2234R 25.99 (1)
ES2027L 17.99 (1)
ES2026R 19.99 (1)

$83.96 total

User avatar
Bronchole
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 9:35 pm
Location: Chatsworth, California
Contact:

Post by Bronchole » Thu Dec 11, 2003 8:51 am

OK guys,

I researched the living pissy out of this before jumping in and somehow still missed something. When I ream the F150 knuckles from the top for my Shuvy rod ends so that they sit in there at the right height the ream only goes about half way thru the knuckle! No one mentioned this in any of their postings or articles. WTF! I have seen the bushings that B.C. Broncos sells, but those are for using the F150 tie rod ends not the Shuvy stuff, and I think I would have to use a 5° reamer to use those bushings.

Please help me to figure this out quick, I am supposed to drive this thing in a X-mas parade this weekend and being able to steer it would be a plus.

User avatar
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 651
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2002 7:45 am
Contact:

Post by venom » Thu Dec 11, 2003 10:23 am

So is the problem that you can't get the cotter pin through the tie rod end? Or is it that your reamer won't go big enough to let the tie rod end drop far enough into the steering arm? It is true that the different knuckles have different thickness steering arms. I think the F150 knuckles are a little thicker than the stock Bronco arms. What I've done is just run the reamer a little deeper into the arm. The tie rod ends don't need much flex at the steering arm so you can drop them into the arm as deep as you need. What I do is keep reaming until the cotter pin will just go through or until the main body of the tie rod end will hit the arm during flexing.

Take a deep breath, it will work just fine. I've helped a lot of people install this setup on a lot of different knuckles and it has always worked. Feel free to send me a pic to help explain what your particular problem is.

User avatar
Bronchole
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 9:35 pm
Location: Chatsworth, California
Contact:

Post by Bronchole » Thu Dec 11, 2003 11:28 pm

The problem is/was that when I ream the hole just enough to allow a cotter pin to be installed only about half of the tappered surface on the TRE will be incontact with the new tappered hole on the knuckle. This is due to the fact that the new taper only goes about half way thru the knuckle at this height. The first hole I overshot a bit (the housing of the TRE is only about 1/16" from the knuckle) and it still only has abou 2/3 of the surface engauged.

Solution:
Talked to Chuck at B.C. Broncos, although He is not crazy about this particular appliction it seems that he sells some sleeves that will allow me to get a full ream on the knuckle, insert this sleeve in to this hole and then insert the TRE in to this sleeve. at $18/sleeve its not the cheapest solution, but I am confident it is A correct one.

I'll post pics and information when this install has been proven and debugged. Thanks for the reply.

User avatar
meanjean
Bfix Rockin
Bfix Rockin
Posts: 440
Joined: Sat May 29, 2004 7:24 pm
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia

Post by meanjean » Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:25 am

Everyone says the Chevy TRE conv uses 1 ton parts. But isnt a 85 Blazer considered a half ton? For a TRE conv with chevy parts what years will work? Just 85 Blazer? Is the Blazer really that much stronger then stock EB TRE? No doubt its cheaper for a set up so cost alone may be advantageous. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. I dont want this to be a head ache and need to replace steering SOON!!!!
72 Bronco.
Now on the east coast :( No Tillamook OHV here?

User avatar
SaddleUp
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 1966
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:06 am
Location: Vancouver, WA

Post by SaddleUp » Tue Feb 22, 2005 12:15 pm

meanjean wrote:Everyone says the Chevy TRE conv uses 1 ton parts. But isnt a 85 Blazer considered a half ton? For a TRE conv with chevy parts what years will work? Just 85 Blazer? Is the Blazer really that much stronger then stock EB TRE? No doubt its cheaper for a set up so cost alone may be advantageous. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. I dont want this to be a head ache and need to replace steering SOON!!!!
One look at the difference in the tie rods is convincing enough. They are at least twice the strength of the original EB stuff. My guess is that they were used on 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, and 1 ton Chevy trucks which is probably why it is referred to as the 1 ton Chevy stuff. That is all irregardles to me as it is quite obvious that my tie rods will now stand up to a lot more abuse than what was there before.

After a little more research I found that several of the 3/4 ton Chevy Trucks also use the same Tie Rods.

User avatar
meanjean
Bfix Rockin
Bfix Rockin
Posts: 440
Joined: Sat May 29, 2004 7:24 pm
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia

Post by meanjean » Tue Feb 22, 2005 8:12 pm

Thanks. I bought 2 of the tir rod ends and they are almost twice the size :P Good thing. Now I just have to get the rest and I will be on my way. Still have yet to talk with anyone who has done this with the F-100 2wd p/s set up. Where there is a will there is a way.
72 Bronco.
Now on the east coast :( No Tillamook OHV here?

User avatar
meanjean
Bfix Rockin
Bfix Rockin
Posts: 440
Joined: Sat May 29, 2004 7:24 pm
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia

Post by meanjean » Wed Mar 16, 2005 12:45 pm

So can you use any tube or pipe for this? Or just DOM? DOM is harder to find in the wall thickness everyones talking about.
72 Bronco.
Now on the east coast :( No Tillamook OHV here?

User avatar
SaddleUp
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 1966
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:06 am
Location: Vancouver, WA

Post by SaddleUp » Wed Mar 16, 2005 1:40 pm

Have Quinn Dusenberry make them for you. (Venom in the original post in this thread) As far as I know he still keeps the right Dom on hand and he also sells the right Jam nuts. I might have been able to save a few bucks doing it myself but by the time I bought the taps it wouldn't have been much.

rcs72
Bfix "What's a Bronco?"
Bfix "What's a Bronco?"
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 5:06 pm
Location: Fremont,CA

Jam Nuts

Post by rcs72 » Wed May 11, 2005 5:08 pm

Any idea where else to find the jam nuts? I went to my local Chevy dealer today and they said that they were discontinued.

User avatar
SaddleUp
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 1966
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:06 am
Location: Vancouver, WA

Re: Jam Nuts

Post by SaddleUp » Wed May 11, 2005 6:18 pm

rcs72 wrote:Any idea where else to find the jam nuts? I went to my local Chevy dealer today and they said that they were discontinued.
Did you check with Quinn already? See my post directly above yours.
Check out the new Early Bronco Trail Covers at http://BroncoCovers.com

User avatar
hest
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 801
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 4:48 pm
Location: NorCal

Post by hest » Fri May 20, 2005 1:49 pm

Try Complete Offroad, near the bottom of this page: http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/c-23_tie ... tools.html

I don't think Quinn is doing tie rods anymore. Complete Offroad is selling the Chevy TRO setup, near the top of the linked page.
1970 Bronco

tonto
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 9:53 pm
Location: Redondo Beach, CA.

Re: Jam Nuts

Post by tonto » Sat May 21, 2005 2:54 am

rcs72 wrote:Any idea where else to find the jam nuts? I went to my local Chevy dealer today and they said that they were discontinued.
http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.php
68 Bronco, 5.8 F.I., AOD, 3.8 Atlas II, Fullwidth Hi-Pin D-60 & 9", 5.13 R&P, 17X8 Allied Beadlocks w/4.5"B.S., Tires: 37X17 BFG/KM's /KX's, Fox Rez Shox's, 4-LINK REAR W/3"x14"King Coilovers, BC 2.5" front coils

User avatar
TonyNokes
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 538
Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2002 4:16 pm
Location: Portland, Oregon

Post by TonyNokes » Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:44 pm

I am working on doing the Chevy TRO with the F150 2x4 box. The question I have is in regards to the Track Bar mount. I have to remove the upper drop bracket and change it on the axle. I am not a big fan of the rasied axle mount because it places quite a lever arm on the axle tube. So, I found the solution at SOB last year (see picture) on two different Broncos. Anyone know who's idea this is or more on how to do it?

It looks like a great solution as it gives you a long track bar, good clearence to the oil pan and a strong mounting point.

Thanks, Tony
Attachments
trackbar lower mount2.jpg.jpg
trackbar lower mount2.jpg.jpg (150.06 KiB) Viewed 57523 times
trackbar lower mount.jpg.jpg
trackbar lower mount.jpg.jpg (143.04 KiB) Viewed 57523 times
Last edited by TonyNokes on Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

User avatar
Captain Air Time
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 1218
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 6:40 pm
Location: Campbell River BC
Contact:

Post by Captain Air Time » Thu Jan 26, 2006 7:50 pm

Trucks are Jim Creel's 'Nightmare' and Gary Yorston's tube/fiberglass truck. housings/mounts/etc are a creation of Gary's.
I'm on my way to impact
Taste the high speed dirt!

Doyle
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:30 pm
Location: East Tennessee

Post by Doyle » Fri Jun 09, 2006 6:41 pm

Is there a minimum lift required to do this as a tie rod over? I have 78 Big bronco knuckles which have the arms lower than the Early Bronco knuckles. Is there a minimum angle from tie rod to drag link?
73 Bronco Ranger, 302, 3 speed floor shift, twin-sticked Dana 20, disk conversion (78 knuckles, caliper brackets, T-bird calipers), Power brake conversion, Warflares (extreme install) 12.50 x 35 Mudkings on 10 x 15s, 2" x 6" box tube rockers, home built bumpers.

User avatar
SaddleUp
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 1966
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:06 am
Location: Vancouver, WA

Post by SaddleUp » Fri Jun 09, 2006 6:59 pm

Doyle wrote:Is there a minimum lift required to do this as a tie rod over? I have 78 Big bronco knuckles which have the arms lower than the Early Bronco knuckles. Is there a minimum angle from tie rod to drag link?
Generally speaking you want the drag link and trac rod parallel to each other. This isn't an absolute but should get rid of most bump steer. With the 78 knuckles I think you can get away with just the tro and not messing with anything else.

Tip: To check for bump steer climb up on the front bump and get the front end jumping up and down while you watch the steering wheel. If the wheel stays in one spot it's fine. If it moves from side to side as the frontend goes up and down then there will be some bump steer.
Check out the new Early Bronco Trail Covers at http://BroncoCovers.com

Doyle
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:30 pm
Location: East Tennessee

Post by Doyle » Fri Jun 09, 2006 7:10 pm

I do have some bump steer since I did the all Ford disk conversion, the best I can measure working alone I think doing this TRO will put me very close to parallel and there seems to be room everywhere except maybe the trac bar bolt near full lock. I currently do not have any lift on this Bronc so was wondering if any had tried this.
73 Bronco Ranger, 302, 3 speed floor shift, twin-sticked Dana 20, disk conversion (78 knuckles, caliper brackets, T-bird calipers), Power brake conversion, Warflares (extreme install) 12.50 x 35 Mudkings on 10 x 15s, 2" x 6" box tube rockers, home built bumpers.

User avatar
Captain Air Time
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 1218
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 6:40 pm
Location: Campbell River BC
Contact:

Post by Captain Air Time » Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:20 pm

THe bottom picture shows 78 knuckles, but the frame rails and engine mounts are custom, so that doesn't help. Makes no difference if its lifted of not, unless you have STEEL bumpstop spacers to limit travel. 78-79 should give you frame/oilpan clearance, while the 76-77 doesn't, IIRC. Been a while since I saw them cycled tho...
I'm on my way to impact
Taste the high speed dirt!

turbotim2
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 786
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 10:07 am

Post by turbotim2 » Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:04 am

Has anyone found a source for the 1.25" DOM tubing? I can't seem to find anything.

User avatar
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 651
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2002 7:45 am
Contact:

Post by venom » Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:08 am

DOM tubing is easy to find. I found and have used this place numerous times when purchasing this tubing. Buy it cut to length and delivered to your door. BTW, I would recommend that you upgrade to 1.375" rather than 1.25" if you want to do more heavy duty off roading. For a street driver, the 1.25" will be fine.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/

turbotim2
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 786
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 10:07 am

Post by turbotim2 » Wed Aug 23, 2006 7:36 am

I checked their website and didn't see anything with a 0.813" ID. Is it a special order or something?

User avatar
Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 2928
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 4:34 pm
Location: Chico California

Post by Formerjughead » Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:26 pm

Here's how mine turned out using the "Venom" kit and Pigpen's tapered reamer, wich is still broken and laying on my bench........For such big trucks the Snap On Guys aren't very well stocked.

Thats a WH Tracbar riser and a Skyjacker adjustable trac bar, for being adjustable it doesn't shorten up enough.

Brad
Attachments
Trac riser back.JPG
Trac riser front.JPG
tie drag trac.JPG
Dusenberry Flip.JPG
"Life sucks, wear a helmet"
Remember: While resorting to violence is never the answer, starting off with violence almost always is.

User avatar
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 651
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2002 7:45 am
Contact:

Post by venom » Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:01 pm

turbotim2 wrote:I checked their website and didn't see anything with a 0.813" ID. Is it a special order or something?
I don't see it there now either. It may be getting harder to find. I've found it at a few different Seattle area vendors, so it's still possible. Here's another potential lead on an online site:

http://www.chicagotube.com/stockbook/round/1-2.html

turbotim2
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 786
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 10:07 am

Post by turbotim2 » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:55 am

Thanks Venom - I will check it out.

FJug - that looks good, are those stock discs or chevy conversion? Any trouble with the tie rod over and the knuckle clearances, etc.? And you have a 3.5" lift right? Was the trac bar lift necessary or just a good idea?

User avatar
bronko69er
Bfix Rockin
Bfix Rockin
Posts: 313
Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 11:33 am
Location: Renton, Wa

Post by bronko69er » Tue Oct 24, 2006 7:23 am

I checked their website and didn't see anything with a 0.813" ID. Is it a special order or something?
Can you get away with a slightly smaller ID and drill out the end to 13/16"? I've done that in the past. Assuming you still have the wall thickness you are after.

User avatar
Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 2928
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 4:34 pm
Location: Chico California

Post by Formerjughead » Tue Oct 24, 2006 8:26 am

turbotim2 wrote:FJug - that looks good, are those stock discs or chevy conversion?
Dunno, they were on it when I got it. At SOB Venom said they might be and beings his word is the gold standard I would have to say most likely.
turbotim2 wrote: Any trouble with the tie rod over and the knuckle clearances, etc.?
Nope
turbotim2 wrote: And you have a 3.5" lift right?
yes
turbotim2 wrote: Was the trac bar lift necessary or just a good idea?
The trac bar riser was necessary because the stock location for the lower mounting bolt on the trac bar interferes with the tie rod / drag link connection. It took me a couple of weeks to get around to cutting the old bolt off and it scratched the paint on the new tie rod, so there are severe clearence issues if you don't use the trac bar riser.

Brad
"Life sucks, wear a helmet"
Remember: While resorting to violence is never the answer, starting off with violence almost always is.

turbotim2
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 786
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 10:07 am

Post by turbotim2 » Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:18 am

It looks like they have the stock needed for this setup.

When reaming the knuckles out for the tie rod ends, are you reversing the taper when going tie rod over? Does that effect the knuckle? It would seem like the tie rod end would be loose in the knuckle until you tighten the nut. Also, I have a 76-77 drop pitman arm, is there any reason that I can't ream that out to use it with this conversion?

BTW - both my brother and brother-in-law are Snap-on dealers, I will tell them to stock up on those reamers.

User avatar
Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded
Posts: 2928
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 4:34 pm
Location: Chico California

Post by Formerjughead » Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:36 am

turbotim2 wrote:When reaming the knuckles out for the tie rod ends, are you reversing the taper when going tie rod over?
Yes, you ream them from the top.
turbotim2 wrote: Does that effect the knuckle? It would seem like the tie rod end would be loose in the knuckle until you tighten the nut.
Nope........every thing is very tight. The degree of taper on the reamer accounts for both sides of the knuckle. Once you tighten the TRE into the knuckle you have to use a puller to get it out. You loose a little bit of meat on the knuckle; but, there is still pleanty left when you are done. The Ford TRE are pretty small. It makes more sense when you have everything apart and start looking at it.
turbotim2 wrote: Also, I have a 76-77 drop pitman arm, is there any reason that I can't ream that out to use it with this conversion?
With the adjustable drag link you no longer need the drop pitman arm
turbotim2 wrote: BTW - both my brother and brother-in-law are Snap-on dealers, I will tell them to stock up on those reamers.
Good Call...........maybe we can get a special price. I know I need to get one to replace the one I broke doing mine......Sorry Pigpen

Brad
"Life sucks, wear a helmet"
Remember: While resorting to violence is never the answer, starting off with violence almost always is.

broncomaster
BFix Starter
BFix Starter
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 1:45 am
Location: Edgewood, Wa

My tie rod over

Post by broncomaster » Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:11 pm

I used 1.5 inch DOM tubing .344 wall with a .812 ID If you are looking for bullet proof this is the setup. I bought my tube from Specialty Metals in Kent, wa. It was a special order but worth the wait :D I had to buy a full stick of the metal but I have three sets to build. I should have enough for 4 or 5 sets of rods, plus this tubing will work great for radius arm extensions or that 4 link rear I want to get started on. I bought all of my rod ends from Parts America and got my tooling from complete off road. This is a very worthy mod and highly recomended. I had a jeeper buddy look under my bronco and couldn't believe the girth of my rods. I am using 1977 big bronco knuckles so my rods are not as high as I would have liked, but bump steer is not a issue. I will not have to raise my track bar mount on the diff, just cut it back and use a lower ball joint nut. My upper track bar mount was hacked buy the PO but it will work for now. I called bent and twisted today to get some more jamb nuts. Let me know if you need help building yours I am all tooled up and I even have some extra tubing.
Attachments
tn_Picture 393.jpg
tn_Picture 389.jpg
tn_Picture 390.jpg
1966 Bronco 170 3 speed 4.11 lockers front and rear "Grandpa's Bronco"
1969 Bronco 289 435 3.5 lift 35X 10.50 boggers My off road warrior.
1974 Bronco explorer 302 auto wifes bronco "sold"
1976 Bronco 351W 435 twin sticks bestop full cage 2006 ranger split bench twin batterys hella headlights. My parts runner cruiser"For Sale"
1993 Bronco XLT 351w EAOD Daily driver Tow rig.

"Keep fixin till it is broken"

User avatar
Ryans71
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2002 1:46 pm
Location: Milton, Wa
Contact:

Re: My tie rod over

Post by Ryans71 » Sat Dec 09, 2006 10:54 pm

broncomaster wrote: Let me know if you need help building yours I am all tooled up and I even have some extra tubing.
Broncomaster, I pm'd you.

Ryan.
'71 Bronco with a bunch o' stuff.........newest thing is Mustang EFI

Post Reply