Chevy Tie Rod Conversion Info

Tie rods, steering box, drag link, alignment.<br />
What tires fit, brands, sizes, beadlocks, etc.

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SaddleUp
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Post by SaddleUp » Fri Jun 09, 2006 6:59 pm

Doyle wrote:Is there a minimum lift required to do this as a tie rod over? I have 78 Big bronco knuckles which have the arms lower than the Early Bronco knuckles. Is there a minimum angle from tie rod to drag link?
Generally speaking you want the drag link and trac rod parallel to each other. This isn't an absolute but should get rid of most bump steer. With the 78 knuckles I think you can get away with just the tro and not messing with anything else.

Tip: To check for bump steer climb up on the front bump and get the front end jumping up and down while you watch the steering wheel. If the wheel stays in one spot it's fine. If it moves from side to side as the frontend goes up and down then there will be some bump steer.
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Post by Doyle » Fri Jun 09, 2006 7:10 pm

I do have some bump steer since I did the all Ford disk conversion, the best I can measure working alone I think doing this TRO will put me very close to parallel and there seems to be room everywhere except maybe the trac bar bolt near full lock. I currently do not have any lift on this Bronc so was wondering if any had tried this.
73 Bronco Ranger, 302, 3 speed floor shift, twin-sticked Dana 20, disk conversion (78 knuckles, caliper brackets, T-bird calipers), Power brake conversion, Warflares (extreme install) 12.50 x 35 Mudkings on 10 x 15s, 2" x 6" box tube rockers, home built bumpers.

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Post by Captain Air Time » Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:20 pm

THe bottom picture shows 78 knuckles, but the frame rails and engine mounts are custom, so that doesn't help. Makes no difference if its lifted of not, unless you have STEEL bumpstop spacers to limit travel. 78-79 should give you frame/oilpan clearance, while the 76-77 doesn't, IIRC. Been a while since I saw them cycled tho...
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Post by turbotim2 » Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:04 am

Has anyone found a source for the 1.25" DOM tubing? I can't seem to find anything.

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Post by venom » Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:08 am

DOM tubing is easy to find. I found and have used this place numerous times when purchasing this tubing. Buy it cut to length and delivered to your door. BTW, I would recommend that you upgrade to 1.375" rather than 1.25" if you want to do more heavy duty off roading. For a street driver, the 1.25" will be fine.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/

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Post by turbotim2 » Wed Aug 23, 2006 7:36 am

I checked their website and didn't see anything with a 0.813" ID. Is it a special order or something?

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Post by Formerjughead » Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:26 pm

Here's how mine turned out using the "Venom" kit and Pigpen's tapered reamer, wich is still broken and laying on my bench........For such big trucks the Snap On Guys aren't very well stocked.

Thats a WH Tracbar riser and a Skyjacker adjustable trac bar, for being adjustable it doesn't shorten up enough.

Brad
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Post by venom » Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:01 pm

turbotim2 wrote:I checked their website and didn't see anything with a 0.813" ID. Is it a special order or something?
I don't see it there now either. It may be getting harder to find. I've found it at a few different Seattle area vendors, so it's still possible. Here's another potential lead on an online site:

http://www.chicagotube.com/stockbook/round/1-2.html

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Post by turbotim2 » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:55 am

Thanks Venom - I will check it out.

FJug - that looks good, are those stock discs or chevy conversion? Any trouble with the tie rod over and the knuckle clearances, etc.? And you have a 3.5" lift right? Was the trac bar lift necessary or just a good idea?

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Post by bronko69er » Tue Oct 24, 2006 7:23 am

I checked their website and didn't see anything with a 0.813" ID. Is it a special order or something?
Can you get away with a slightly smaller ID and drill out the end to 13/16"? I've done that in the past. Assuming you still have the wall thickness you are after.

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Post by Formerjughead » Tue Oct 24, 2006 8:26 am

turbotim2 wrote:FJug - that looks good, are those stock discs or chevy conversion?
Dunno, they were on it when I got it. At SOB Venom said they might be and beings his word is the gold standard I would have to say most likely.
turbotim2 wrote: Any trouble with the tie rod over and the knuckle clearances, etc.?
Nope
turbotim2 wrote: And you have a 3.5" lift right?
yes
turbotim2 wrote: Was the trac bar lift necessary or just a good idea?
The trac bar riser was necessary because the stock location for the lower mounting bolt on the trac bar interferes with the tie rod / drag link connection. It took me a couple of weeks to get around to cutting the old bolt off and it scratched the paint on the new tie rod, so there are severe clearence issues if you don't use the trac bar riser.

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Post by turbotim2 » Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:18 am

It looks like they have the stock needed for this setup.

When reaming the knuckles out for the tie rod ends, are you reversing the taper when going tie rod over? Does that effect the knuckle? It would seem like the tie rod end would be loose in the knuckle until you tighten the nut. Also, I have a 76-77 drop pitman arm, is there any reason that I can't ream that out to use it with this conversion?

BTW - both my brother and brother-in-law are Snap-on dealers, I will tell them to stock up on those reamers.

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Post by Formerjughead » Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:36 am

turbotim2 wrote:When reaming the knuckles out for the tie rod ends, are you reversing the taper when going tie rod over?
Yes, you ream them from the top.
turbotim2 wrote: Does that effect the knuckle? It would seem like the tie rod end would be loose in the knuckle until you tighten the nut.
Nope........every thing is very tight. The degree of taper on the reamer accounts for both sides of the knuckle. Once you tighten the TRE into the knuckle you have to use a puller to get it out. You loose a little bit of meat on the knuckle; but, there is still pleanty left when you are done. The Ford TRE are pretty small. It makes more sense when you have everything apart and start looking at it.
turbotim2 wrote: Also, I have a 76-77 drop pitman arm, is there any reason that I can't ream that out to use it with this conversion?
With the adjustable drag link you no longer need the drop pitman arm
turbotim2 wrote: BTW - both my brother and brother-in-law are Snap-on dealers, I will tell them to stock up on those reamers.
Good Call...........maybe we can get a special price. I know I need to get one to replace the one I broke doing mine......Sorry Pigpen

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My tie rod over

Post by broncomaster » Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:11 pm

I used 1.5 inch DOM tubing .344 wall with a .812 ID If you are looking for bullet proof this is the setup. I bought my tube from Specialty Metals in Kent, wa. It was a special order but worth the wait :D I had to buy a full stick of the metal but I have three sets to build. I should have enough for 4 or 5 sets of rods, plus this tubing will work great for radius arm extensions or that 4 link rear I want to get started on. I bought all of my rod ends from Parts America and got my tooling from complete off road. This is a very worthy mod and highly recomended. I had a jeeper buddy look under my bronco and couldn't believe the girth of my rods. I am using 1977 big bronco knuckles so my rods are not as high as I would have liked, but bump steer is not a issue. I will not have to raise my track bar mount on the diff, just cut it back and use a lower ball joint nut. My upper track bar mount was hacked buy the PO but it will work for now. I called bent and twisted today to get some more jamb nuts. Let me know if you need help building yours I am all tooled up and I even have some extra tubing.
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Re: My tie rod over

Post by Ryans71 » Sat Dec 09, 2006 10:54 pm

broncomaster wrote: Let me know if you need help building yours I am all tooled up and I even have some extra tubing.
Broncomaster, I pm'd you.

Ryan.
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Post by turbotim2 » Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:28 am

Is there a problem with clearance of the tie rod ends on the TRO setup hitting 15" rims with the stock 76-77 disk brake axle?

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Post by turbotim2 » Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:21 am

Anyone know?

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Post by SHAWN » Sat Feb 03, 2007 3:28 pm

turbotim2,
I had to used 1/4" wheel spacers. Also, I had to use tape weights to balance. The weight on the inside rim lip would hit.

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Post by john » Sat Feb 03, 2007 6:05 pm

i was also able to do it with one set of 15" wheels (aluminum with 3.5" of BS) while the steel version would not (supposedly the same BS). The one thing i had to do for both was clearance the rod end about 1/4" to make them clear. HTH.
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Post by turbotim2 » Sun Feb 04, 2007 5:54 am

So would I be better off going with 16's?

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Follow up...

Post by TonyNokes » Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:24 pm

I know this is a really old thread but I figured I would let everyone know the revised lower track bar mount has worked very well for me. I have no detectible bump steer and certainly no death wobble. The track bar also clears the oil pan. This and the GM tierod ends are working very well for a long time!

Regards, Tony
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Post by DirtDonk » Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:54 pm

Thanks for the update Tony. Looks super sanitary. As a bonus, it looks like it really reinforces the steering yoke to keep it from tweaking under hard use.

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