Progress Pictures (Updated with New Paintjob)

Colors, replacement panels, paint, OEM and stock info.<br />
Seats, hard/soft tops, gauges, dash, etc.

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:48 pm

Rollcage was made by a FJ-40 guy back when I lived in SLC, Utah.

Tires are 33x12.50/15 MTRs. Should have gone with 35s. Lesson learned.

Rear tire carrier was made by a guy in the USAF in SD that used to make them years ago. I don't think he makes them anymore (had health issues with his child.)

Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:17 pm

That looks good ..............How is the paint job holding up?


Brad
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Post by billie » Sun Mar 19, 2006 8:17 pm

If you get a chance, I'd like to see the tire mount. No hurry since it's aways down the road for me. The 35's are an old choice that makes more sense every time I see them on an EB.

I changed my cage design cause my bender is gouchy with a 90 bend in .192 pipe. Your design doesn't have any 90's which is where I ended up. I want my own builds to be unique so that's why I'm going to a double or triple loop. Haven't seen anything like that yet ( i'm thinking triple loop and double back. Have to assemble the parts and decide after I see it).

Sure don't want to sound too personal or anything like that, but, DAMN, that truck looks great. That color was my choice in my mustang but couldn't find one avaulable when I bought it. I ended buying a red one and some dumb B***h creamed me. The new one is blue so the bronco is going red. Mazda Miata I think.

Cya and happy trails.
ZF-Done; 5.0 HO-Done. Stripped to the frame. The loooong road back begins!

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:13 am

Well it has been a while since I updated where I am at.

Finally received the RJM harness and most people were right that it was worth waiting for. Really nice harness and it lays out perfectly in the engine bay.

Most of the harness is hooked up. I still have to get the O2 sensors and cut the hole in the firewall for the ECM section of the harness. I am waiting on one part before doing this that will be a neat trick for the ECM (you will have to wait until I finish it before I tell you what I am doing)

Once the ECM is in place, I will run a test of the fuel system to check for leaks.

Headers and exhaust will be ordered in about a week (BC Broncos) and then I can get this on the road.

Final checklist of to-do's:

- Install heater hoses. I have to figure this one out still to get the right application for the bends. I have the stock Mustang heater pipe that goes along the top of the intake manifold. I have to work out the bends for the hoses in the rear. Anyone do this yet and have part numbers??

- K&N filter. Already figured out the application number

- Finish the BC Bronco EFI throttle cable. Just need to cut it to length and attach to the pedal.

- Buy an upper radiator hose (1968 Pontiac GTO w/400)

- I am going to go thru my grounds one more time and upgrade my engine to frame, frame to body, body to engine ground cables. Don't want to fry my new A9L.

- Finish spark plug wires / buy a coil.

- Mark damper at 10 BTDC for when I time the engine on initial startup.

Pictures show the SEFI installed and gives an idea of how high the intake sits. 1" body lift. 351W GT-40 lower, Cobra upper with 3/8 spacer.
Attachments
351W SEFI_MAF.JPG
351W SEFI Front.JPG
351W SEFI Pass Side Clearance.JPG
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by twisted77 » Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:07 am

who did you get the wireing harness from?


Bryce
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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:22 am

Twisted,

Body wiring harness is the Painless Harness.

Fuel Injection wiring harness was Ryan's harness. Made specifically to put SEFI into a Bronco.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=24
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:07 pm

SEFI swap finished.

After an enormously long time in the making, I finally heard the beast roar to life today at 1600 (4 pm for non-military folks).

The procedure would have been comical to watch. Everything hooked up, the key turned to "on", wife, with one hand grounding the fuel pumps at the test circuit, somehow holding two fire extinguishers at the ready....fuel pumps engage and I am running around and rolling under the truck frantically searching for high powered fuel leaks, images of a massive fire in the back of my head.

Whew, no leaks....now on to phase two. Start the truck. It comes to life....and then stalls. Try again and it runs a little better.....must be the computer learning....idles settles down a little and it stays running.

It smells bad! Remind wife that it is not running rich, I'm too smart for that.....ah, yes, the new BCB headers and exhaust are burning off there coatings.

I let it run for awhile checking the temp and fuel pressure, looking (albeit less frantically) for leaks...idle gets a little better.

Initial observations:

1. Fuel pressure is 34psi at idle, rock steady. Should it be higher?
2. Idle still lopes a bit. I do not have an agressive cam at all, should be rather mild. Probably still the computer learning.
3. Codes that I pulled are 81, 82, 84, 85 which should be normal with the RJM harness.
4. HP fuel pump had no issue drawing fuel from the tank (WH 24gal). Took about 10 seconds on initial priming to get 34psi at the rails.
5. All the injectors are firing. Heard them ticking using a metal rod.

Still left to do:

1. Get O2 sensor bungs welded in. Can I drive, as is, for a few miles to get to a shop without them?
2. Finish hooking up the BCB EFI throttle cable. I hate cutting the cable and getting it to go into the little end bracket thingy, always fray the cable (from doing this on the carb throttle cable).


Bill
Attachments
HP Fuel Pump.JPG
EFI Side2.JPG
EFI Side.JPG
EFI Front.JPG
EFI.JPG
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by highlander » Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:44 am

You should be fine driven w/o the o2 sensors, not having them is why it is rough idling. It is running in closed loop. everthing looks good.

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Bandit
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Post by Bandit » Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:52 pm

Well I've been watching this post for a long time.You can most definitetly be proud of the first class job you have done.Congradulations on a fantastic rebuild.Could you give me any feed back on the painless install.I've had that box sitting here ,but I get very nervous about messing up that harness?I will be starting on that as soon as I get the C-4 redone,and start on installing the 351 crate motor ,I have on the stand.Which one did you go with,and could you tell me which way you went reference the pulley system?Did you go with the 250 hp Ford crate?Dd you have to swap out the oilpan ,and switch the waterpump to the other side.
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Bandit
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Allen
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Post by Allen » Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:59 pm

"2. Finish hooking up the BCB EFI throttle cable. I hate cutting the cable and getting it to go into the little end bracket thingy, always fray the cable (from doing this on the carb throttle cable)."

I have never tried this in a vehicle appliction, but on my kids bicycle when I need to trim a cable I solder the area where the cut is made. Cuts clean, no fray!
Allen
1970 Bronco, 5.0 SEFI/NV3550/dana 20, 5.5" total lift, 4whl PDB, Dana 44, BB 9", and alot more money!

1966 Bronco in a box

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Oct 03, 2006 2:45 pm

Bandit wrote:Well I've been watching this post for a long time.You can most definitetly be proud of the first class job you have done.Congradulations on a fantastic rebuild.Could you give me any feed back on the painless install.I've had that box sitting here ,but I get very nervous about messing up that harness?I will be starting on that as soon as I get the C-4 redone,and start on installing the 351 crate motor ,I have on the stand.Which one did you go with,and could you tell me which way you went reference the pulley system?Did you go with the 250 hp Ford crate?Dd you have to swap out the oilpan ,and switch the waterpump to the other side.
Thanks
Bandit
Bandit,

Thanks for the comments. Appreciate it. I will attempt to answer your questions:

1. Painless Harness. Truely painless and fairly easy install. Only thing that made it even slightly hard was that I had pulled out all my old wiring so long ago. Lay it out on the floor next to your truck and go thru your instructions a few times to get comforable a few times. Only snafu that I had was with the horn. I did not have the relay plugged in. Painless support was fairly responsive - keep talking to the same guy if you have to call back.

2. I bought the Ford motorsport M-6007-S58 which is the 250hp truck engine. Very happy with it and I could not beat the price. I put the Mustang conversion oil pan with the rear sump on it. Make sure you replace the pickup with the one in the kit. Buy from summit and not the Bronco houses as it is cheaper there. I put the stock mustang serpentine water pump on it. I am running the crossover pipe at the bottom and the GTO upper hose. I went with the 88-93 Mustang serp setup and the RJM 3G alt. i had to move the radiator forward about 2" to clear. Used the BCB reverse rotation fan and stock fan shroud. JBG 4 core aluminum radiator (marked Howe on the box). If you have a stock radiator, you might not have to move it forward as my 4 core was fairly thick.

Thanks again
Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Bandit
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Post by Bandit » Tue Oct 03, 2006 3:57 pm

Thanks a bunch for the response.Thats the same engine I have sitting right here on the stand.Honestly,I wanted a roller motor,but I'll take a new motor over a rebuild any day(of course depending who the rebuilder is,I'd take one of my Granddads motors anyday).I guess that means your belt set up is on the new mustang side ,instead of the EB side?I'm a fool,I order from the venders,I don't want problems.I have sitting here the Bronco oil pan,Flowcooler water pump,66-77 timing chain cover.I'm not clear if serpentine is worth it for me,some would say that a waterpump robs Horsepower,but how much will we squeeze from a flat tappet cam truck motor any hoo?Have you redone you're core support and fender aprons and such,thats what is holding me back.I didn't have time to work on the Bronco,took a new job,and today they ceased operations here.Now I'm desperately seeking a good job,but have lots of time.
Bandit
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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:06 pm

You actually have a roller motor as it is roller cam ready. Just get the roller cam you want. The spider, pushrods, dogbones, roller lifters should be stock Ford roller stuff. Basically your lifter well, below the intake, is already tapped for the spider.

The water pump inlet is on the dirver's side vice the Bronco's pass side. You can get a crossover tube from BC Broncos to connect your current radiator to the WP.

More info on my serp swap:

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80131

Info and results from my PS Pump braket issue (solution is at the end of the thread)

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76583

Hope it helps. You can also email me at: wcdeod at earthlink.net
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Bandit
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Post by Bandit » Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:47 pm

I did not know about the crossover,I will get right on that, thanks.I would rather leave the factory engine alone now that I have it.If I can, I would leave the factory water pump and timing chain alone.
Thank you
Bandit
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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Wed Oct 04, 2006 2:56 pm

No need to change your timing chain or cover, just the WP. If you put a Bronco WP on it, it will cover up the stock timing pointer. Not a real big deal but for me it was easier to get a stock 5.0 reverse rotation WP and the crossover pipe. Kept the stock timing chain, cover, and timing pointer and ran the rest with the serp setup.

Crossover tube from BCB is in the link below. Hope it helps.

http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info ... cts_id=579

Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by rstarr » Wed Nov 15, 2006 12:53 pm

What is goin on with your rocker panels?

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Wed Nov 15, 2006 4:48 pm

The bottoms of them were rusted out so I cut them off about 1" below the bottom of the door. Plan to weld up some 2x6 rock skis to protect that area of the body. I will then trim the flares to match the rock skis.
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by rstarr » Wed Nov 15, 2006 5:11 pm

I like the look. Nice job by the way. It is looking great. How is that EFI working out? I hope it was worth it. Sometimes all the extra work makes it that much more enjoyable when its done.

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Fri Nov 17, 2006 5:31 am

EFI works well so far. Only issue that I have is that the external fuel pump does not have a valve to maintain the fuel pressure after you shut the engine off. I got an inline valve from aeromotive that should fix the problem. Just took a little longer to start after it sits for awhile. Pressure would only hold for about 20 minutes after shutting it off. Thought it was the pressure regulator until a did a bunch of searching on Corral.net.

Have not run it on the road that much as I am in the middle of a ZF swap for the next week or so. Pulled the 77 C4 out (for sale - see section) and separated the transfer case, cleaned it up and I am awaiting the ZF kit from BCB.
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by broncomaster » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:32 pm

How about if you cycle the key a couple times to build up the pressure. Buy the way your project is very squared away. Keep up the great work!!!
1966 Bronco 170 3 speed 4.11 lockers front and rear "Grandpa's Bronco"
1969 Bronco 289 435 3.5 lift 35X 10.50 boggers My off road warrior.
1974 Bronco explorer 302 auto wifes bronco "sold"
1976 Bronco 351W 435 twin sticks bestop full cage 2006 ranger split bench twin batterys hella headlights. My parts runner cruiser"For Sale"
1993 Bronco XLT 351w EAOD Daily driver Tow rig.

"Keep fixin till it is broken"

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:21 pm

Finally got the Bronco painted. Local shop did a great job for a VERY fair price.

Color is GM Sunset Orange Metallic.

Still have some reassembly to do, trim the flares, install the vent windows, etc. Then get the interior Linex'd in a sand color.
Attachments
rear new plate.JPG
pass front with bumper.JPG
hood.JPG
front with bumper.JPG
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:23 pm

Also note that my rear plate is a vintage 1970 NC tag that is legal in NC to drive with. You only have to keep the registered plate inside the vehicle. Thought it was a nice touch and the lettering is also close to the same color.
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by Formerjughead » Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:29 pm

SWEEEEEEEET!!!!
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Post by NicksTrix » Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:22 pm

great job. looks terrific, you should be proud. :thumbup:

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Bandit
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Post by Bandit » Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:20 am

I love youre Bronco!I've been dreaming up ,which front and rear bumpers to go with,for a long time,and I came up with the exact ones you chose,only cant afford them yet.Is your Proflow,the one with the "finished edge",I have the old one,and my wife forgot to pin the hood,and it exploded off the front end.I am eventually gonna replace it ,with the same one,but that W.H.'s deluxe Proflow,that you can also put back the hood closing hardware.Did you just pin it,or did you put back the hood hardware?Hoestly inside and out,youre rig is one of the top in my mind,for my taste.Donn
currie 9",nodular iron,arb,4.56's,35 spline,original radio!

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