Progress Pictures (Updated with New Paintjob)

Colors, replacement panels, paint, OEM and stock info.
Seats, hard/soft tops, gauges, dash, etc.

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ChrisH
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Re: I am back

Post by ChrisH » Thu Nov 17, 2005 7:31 pm

wcdeod wrote:Well I have returned from a fun filled year in Iraq....again.

New to the project list is SEFI for the 351W. I already have the 351W GT-40 lower and a Cobra upper. I am trying to decide on fuel rails. The stock mustang rails have the inlet/outlet on the pass side. I am looking for something on the driver's side. Think 90s F250 with 351W have something that might work.

Back to answer questions and develop all new ones on my own. Thanks for all the support while I was gone from BFIX and CB.

Thanks
Bill
No, THANK YOU!

The Explorer 5.0L motor fuel rails have their fuel return on the driver's side. Take a look at the 97/98 motors (those I've seen so I know that's their configuration) The 2000 Explorer ran returnless fuel rails, so they won't work. I'm not sure about the 99's though (or the 96's, for that matter). Perhaps, one of those will work for you.

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Post by wcdeod » Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:14 am

Thanks again. I have found a fuel rail off a 99 Explorer that i will try (once it gets here). Trial and error for only 20 bucks.....

I am considering taking alot of pictures and doing a writeup on this conversion on my 351W. I have read alot about the 302 but there are some areas that seem to be different on the 351s that a writeup might help. Is there any interest in this? Should I continue it on this thread or create a new one?

So far, the list of parts for the swap that I have are:

351W GT-40 Lower
Cobra Upper
65mm T/B
Pro-M 75mm Bullet MAF
99 Explorer fuel rails
24lb Injectors
A9L EEC

Still need to order the wiring harness and look for a dizzy. I will reuse some of the AN-6 line that I ran for my carb setup to run the FI. Right now my fuel lines are 1 foot of rubber from tank to filter then -6 AN from the filter to the mech pump (about 6 feet). I can probably go rubber from tank to FI Pump on frame rail and then my -6AN to the rails. Rubber of -6An for a return.

I have the WH 24 gallon tank (non-EFI). There are two additional ports on the top of the tank near the filler hose. Can I just use on of them for the return line to dump in to?

Bill
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Post by Formerjughead » Tue Nov 22, 2005 9:18 am

I think the only difference between the Wild Horses EFI tank and their Regular tank is that the EFI tank has a fuel pump in it or on it or some other such foolishness.

I think the ports you are talking about are indeed reyurn lines anyway for the vapor recovery aparatus of the smog

Take lots of pictures

Brad
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:33 pm

i think you are right. I will plan on using one of the ports for the return. I am starting the teardown tomorrow so i will have lots of pics by the end of the day. I will attempt to document this as I go and include part numbers for those thinkgs that I found hard to get.

Attached is a pic of what I am starting with - my carb setup.
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Bronco Engine2.JPG
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Bronco Engine.JPG
Bronco Engine.JPG (76.43 KiB) Viewed 29829 times
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:25 pm

Put the Carb setup for sale in the For Sale section. Email me for question, etc.

Thanks
Bill
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Post by Bandit » Tue Nov 22, 2005 8:53 pm

Well you've got great taste in upgrades.That Bronco is looking sweet!Half the stuff you put on ..is what I put on mine ..MSD,procar seats,MTR's,cage is simular...But damn thats so clean looking taking it down to the frame like that...never done that.I was hoping you could give me some advice on the painless harness..bought mine eight months ago..sitting right here in the box as I type..it took me so long to save up for it Im terrified to ruin it...I know you can call me a wimp now..its just that money is so tight and I have no Idea where to begin...what about wire looms ?what did you use?My bronco looks like that "I BELIEVE" t-shirt.Finally ordered my 35 spline,ARB,4.56 geared nodular iron Ford 9" from Currie supposed to be done 11/29/05...didnt get disc brakes though,I really wanted them,went with drums to bring the price down a bit.How are those rear discs?
great truck your building!
BANDIT....oh yeah youve got a proflow hood too! :finger:

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Post by wcdeod » Wed Nov 23, 2005 5:40 am

Bandit,

Thanks for the comments. Takes a very long time (for me any way) to get this far. Close to 6 years so far, most of the time spent saving for stuff and being deployed. You get smarter with deals as you go. I have spent alot of time searching for parts and talking to alot of great people on this site and Classicbroncos.com. Great places to get tech info.

Painless harness. First off, I suck at any kind of electrical work. This harness install was easy and went very smooth. I had even tossed my old harness years ago when i tore the truck apart so I had nothing to work off of other than the instructions.

The ONLY problem that I ran in to is that i could not get my horn to work with my aftermarket steering column. Called the tech line at Painless and had it worked out in 5 minutes.

BC Broncos rear disk brakes are great. Right now I have them on my stock small bearing rear. I have a 77 BB Rear housing sitting in the garage that will get 31 spline, 4.56, Detroit, etc some time down the road when funds allow.

I also have a ZF sitting in the garage that I found for $300 (came with the BW1356 T/C that I sold for $100 so the tranny was only $200). That is my next big project after the SEFI.

Love the Proflow hood. Great fit and built tough.
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Post by Bandit » Wed Nov 23, 2005 8:18 pm

wcdeod,Thats a fine Bronco your building,I always wanted to do the frame off you did but couldnt.A lot of parts are simular between our Broncos.Procar seats ,MTR's,Msd,painless harness..only thing stopping me is money...or I'd be way ahead of where I am now.Well I finally ordered my 35 spline,4.56 geared,ARB,nodular iron,xtra heay duty complete rear end from Currie.Its supposed to be ready on 11/29.Cant wait...my bronco looks like that "I believe" t-shirt!Could you give me any tips on installing the Painless harness,I've got it right hear in the box and Im terrified of messing it up? :fedup:

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Post by wcdeod » Thu Nov 24, 2005 6:20 am

Keep plugging away at your project. Money has slowed me down quite a bit to at times.

The Painless harness is fairly easy. I have no electrical knowledge and doing any electrical work is like Chinese math to me. The instructions that come with the harness are great. Read them a few times. What I also did was go into your garage, clear out space next to your Bronco the same size as the truck. Draw a line on the ground (chalk, tape, etc) the would represent you firewall. Lay out the harness on the ground and follow the instructions a few times just stringing everything on the floor. The wire is marked every 6 inches or so but I also used masking tape to tag the ends of the wire with their destination.

Once you are comfortable with this and have done a dry run a few times, move it over to the truck.

Only tough section that I had was making the horn work (aftermarket steering wheel). Painless tech line helped me in 5 minutes.

Also take a picture of your engine compartment as it sits now (selenoid area especially). It will help later.

HTH

Bill
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Post by Izzy3 » Thu Nov 24, 2005 7:53 am

WCDEOD,

What is prompting you to switch to an EFI when you have so few miles on the carb setup? Were you dissatified with it or are you switching for other reasons?
74' Ranger

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Post by wcdeod » Thu Nov 24, 2005 7:57 am

Izzy3,

Been gone for over a year and I have always been considering an SEFI swap. Happened into some of the parts, saved while deployed, and figured it would be a good winter project. Not dissatisfied with the carb setup at all.

Just always wanted EFI. Had the carb setup for a long while as I was building up the truck. Crate motor came with everything except the carb, so it was a quick decision at the time.
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Post by ricks77eb » Sun Nov 27, 2005 7:17 pm

Very nice Bronco and some really good pictures.

Rick
Just a Bronco Guy

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Update

Post by wcdeod » Sun Dec 11, 2005 9:48 am

I wanted to update everyone on my progress as I have been asked to document my 351W EFI swap. Work has had me extremely busy so I apologize for moving so slowly (funding issues apply also).

Today I will discuss fuel rails. As you know, a 351W intake manifold is wider than that of a 302/5.0. This prevents stock Mustang fuel rails from fitting without modification. You are essentially left with two options for fuel rails:

1. Aftermarket fuel rails from Vortec, Mallory, Aeromotive, etc which are $300+.
2. Modify a set of stock fuel rails.

I chose to modify a set of stock fuel rails. I did not like that the Mustang fuel rails have their inlet/outlet points on the passenger side, front of the engine. I had already run -6 AN lines along the driver’s side frame rail for my previous carb setup so I started looking around for other applications. Ford Explorers with the 5.0 use a different set of fuel rails that some on the Mustang websites say flow better than stock Mustang rails. The inlet/outlet on the Explorer rails are in the rear / driver’s side yet still leave the fuel pressure regulator in the stock location (aftermarket AFR are available from Kirban, etc).

You have to be careful in that sometime around 1998-1999, Ford switched the Explorer to a “no-return line” fuel injection system. Found this out the hard way when I ordered fuel rails for a 1999 Explorer.

1996 has the correct application that we are looking for and is the year that I used on mine. I cut off the stock flexible lines and replaced with longer fuel injection hose and used fuel injection hose clamps (this is very important).

As you can see, everything fits and there are no clearance issues with my intake even without a spacer of any kind (just set it on to see).

Cost for this so far?

1996 Ford Explorer fuel rails – www.corral.net $20 shipped
Fuel Injection hose - $8
Fuel injection hose clamps - $4

Not bad so far and much cheaper than the aftermarket. One issue that I have to work thru and would have been an issue with any fuel rail is a clearance problem for the heater intake tubes that follow along the top passenger side of the intake. I think that since the 351W intake is wider, the bend does not have enough clearance. I will attempt to modify with my trusty BFH to see if it will fit.

Next update: Swapping the manifolds. Stay tuned.
Attachments
Rear of intake with explorer fuel rails2.JPG
Rear of intake with explorer fuel rails2.JPG (76.41 KiB) Viewed 29889 times
Rear of Intake with explorer fuel rails.JPG
Rear of Intake with explorer fuel rails.JPG (73.11 KiB) Viewed 29889 times
New Hose.JPG
New Hose.JPG (52.52 KiB) Viewed 29889 times
Front of intake with explorer fuel rails.JPG
Front of intake with explorer fuel rails.JPG (93.24 KiB) Viewed 29889 times
AFPR Clearance.JPG
AFPR Clearance.JPG (63.51 KiB) Viewed 29889 times
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Explorer Fuel Rails

Post by wcdeod » Sun Dec 11, 2005 9:51 am

Here you can see the difference between the 1996 fuel rails and the 1999 fuel rails.

On the 1999 fuel rail, there is only one port. It is for the inlet since Ford switched to a returnless system for the Explorers sometime in 1998-1999
Attachments
Explorer Fuel Rails.jpg
Explorer Fuel Rails.jpg (16 KiB) Viewed 29886 times
1999 Explorer fuel rail.JPG
1999 Explorer fuel rail.JPG (136.48 KiB) Viewed 29886 times
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Post by TonyNokes » Sun Dec 11, 2005 12:50 pm

WCDEOD, You do very nice work!

Out of curiosity why didn't you just use fuel rails off a 5.8L truck/Bronco? The feed and return are at the back and point to the dirvers side plus thry are a dime a dozen...

Tony
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Post by wcdeod » Sun Dec 11, 2005 1:58 pm

I could not find any locally and I was also told that the FPR was on the wrong side and would interfere with the upper intake.

If you have a pic of the 5.8L truck fuel rail, throw them up here so others can see.

Thanks
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Post by NicksTrix » Sun Dec 11, 2005 7:42 pm

welcome home bill!
nice to see some pics of your project. it's coming along nicely.
i'm knee deep in mine currently.
give me a shout out sometime.

glad to see those summer doors go to such a sweet ride too! enjoy em~

be good
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Post by wcdeod » Fri Dec 23, 2005 5:41 pm

OK,

I have read and read and read all that I can on the fuel injection setups that people have done. I am converting my 351W crate motor over to SEFI and am at the point that I am going to run my fuel lines and pumps. Here is what I have and where I am headed:

Carter low pressure fuel pump
MSD hi pressure fuel pump
BCs Accumulator (still have to purchase)
EFI filter

I still have a Fram fuel filter canister that I was running with my carb setup that is on the frame rail right after the 24 gal tank - then to a mech pump on the block.

I am thinking that I might want to keep the filter there and run the low pressure pump right after it then the accumulator then the high pressure pump. I am concerned about how I would run the return. Should I ditch the Fram filter?

Who has a good suggestion for a good location for the accumulator? I am running Exploder fuel rails that have the inlet/outlets on the rear dirvers side of the block. Is there a good spot on the frame rail? I am attempting to reuse alot of the -6AN line that I ran with the carb setup - 6AN from filter to mech pump then to the carb. i know I have to get the Russel adapters for the Ford fuel rails.

Any insight?

And yes, I will post pics of the progress on CB (current progress is on BFix under "progress pics" wcdeod.

Thanks
Bill
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Post by NicksTrix » Fri Dec 23, 2005 6:00 pm

bill, keep the fram filter. they are a good seperator. (water will always go to the bottom of the filer), just keep it plumbed behind your elec pump back by the tank.
as for the placement of your other parts, it's all about where you can package them in and keep it clean while being functional.

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Post by wcdeod » Fri Dec 23, 2005 6:17 pm

Nick to the rescue!

So you would keep the filter but plumb the return from the accumulator to the tank?

Think the order of things would be:

Tank
Fram Filter
Low pressure pump
accumulator
High pressure pump
high pressure filter
fuel rail
accumulator
tank

Sound about right?

We have to get together at some point. I have your doors sitting in the sapre bedroom while I wait on hinges. Have to paint them to match the rig (shame as they look awesome). I might risk running around with a grey rig and yellow doors:)
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Post by NicksTrix » Fri Dec 23, 2005 8:25 pm

[quote="wcdeod"]So you would keep the filter but plumb the return from the accumulator to the tank?

Think the order of things would be:

Tank
Fram Filter
Low pressure pump
accumulator
High pressure pump
high pressure filter
fuel rail
accumulator
tank

Sound about right?<<


why run 2 pumps? why not like this:
tank
fram
hi psi pump
maybe accumulator
rail then back to tank?

not sure why you'd need the accululator after the rail, as it would already be pressurized from the pump.

but hey, i'm no f/i guy. maybe someday...

i'm still trying to understand why the accumulator when you have a high psi pump. i see no point in the low prs pump. hopefully some others can chime in and enlighten us.
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Post by TonyNokes » Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:02 pm

Bill, you have the fuel system routing right. As a side note keep as much of the fuel system away from heat sources. My accumulator and high pressure pump are in the engine compartmnet and they absorb so much heat the fuel tank gets hot to the touch after a day of wheeling.
I am going to have to fix that...
Tony
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Post by NicksTrix » Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:15 pm

tony, can you explain the purpose of the low pres. pump and the accumulator?
thanks'
nick

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Post by TonyNokes » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:11 am

Nick, the idea behind the low pressure pump is to draw the fuel from the tank, keep the accumulator full, and provide a little pressure head to the High pressure pump. It has been said that High Pressure pumps don't draw as well as Low Pressure pumps but I don't know if that is true or not.

In my case I modified my fuel filter/separator to act as an accumulator. The accumulator helps keep the engine properly fed in off camber situations since our tanks our not baffled. I think it is something that is nice to have but certainly not required.

As a side note it gives you lots of warning that you are running out of fuel also. I run three tanks so I "run out of fuel" on a regular basis and it is nice to have the warning....
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Post by NicksTrix » Tue Jan 03, 2006 4:56 pm

tony, thanks for the response. interesting thoughts behind it.

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Post by wcdeod » Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:15 am

Damn! I had just gotten to the point that I had convinced myself that I would only run a high pressure pump and no accumulator (based on alot of discussion on CB and comments from Saddleup).

I am going to give this a try (I still have the low pressure pump incase I have to start over):

Tank - Fram Filter - High Pressure Pump - HP Filter -Fuel Rails - Return to Tank

If it does not work out then:

Tank - Filter - LP Pump - Accumlator - HP Pump - HP Filter - Fuel Rails - Return to Accumulator - return to tank

This is like Chinese Math :roll:
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you did an awesome job!

Post by Bandit » Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:26 pm

wcdeod,you did a better job than me,and Ive been on mine for ten years.Damn I want to do a frame off!But when my peace of shit car goes down my '73 becomes my daily.Could you tell me something about your new crate motor?It seems that 351 crates and strokers are easier to find than bolt in 302's?Does that mean the radiator is reversed ,I mean the hoses,so that my new WH's four core would be obselete?Where did you get it,do you mind telling me what it costs,was it a pain,compared to not putting back the 302?What fuel system are you going with.Hey...damn nice work.
BANDIT
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Post by NicksTrix » Wed Jan 04, 2006 6:29 pm

use a water pump that exits from the r/s.
your new rad will be fine.

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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:35 am

Bandit,

I am using a 351W crate motor from Ford Performance Parts (formerly known as FMS). Model M-6007-S58. It came as a complete crate motor with the following:

New (not reman engine)
Duraspark distributor
Aluminum 4bbl intake manifold
Water pump
balancer
HD Flywheel
Spark plugs and wires

See the attached picture. It came looking just like that. I bought it from Scoggin-Dickey (google internet) who had the lowest price of $2200. Figured it was less than a rebuild and all new and a step up to a 351W.

I use a stock type (yet new aluminum 4 core) radiator with a new water pump that has the inlet on the pass side (stock Bronco).
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M6007S58.jpg
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Hell yeah no rebuild!

Post by Bandit » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:51 pm

Im with you;every rebuild Ive bought ;piece of crap,I agree; crate motors save you in the long run.Does that mean a stock 302 radiator does work?I thought 351's meant changing the radiator to a different configuration?That motor is so awesome,I want one,maybe 2006 tax time!So what fuel system are you going with?
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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:39 pm

This one :thumbup: :thumbup:

I should be able to start the install the following week.

FMS 351W GT-40 lower
Cobra Upper
24lb injectors
1996 Explorer fuel rail
65mm Throttlebody
75mm Pro-M bullet MAF
A9L Computer
1991 TFI Distributor (coming in the mail)
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DSCN0126.JPG (79.14 KiB) Viewed 33594 times
DSCN0125.JPG
DSCN0125.JPG (80.36 KiB) Viewed 33594 times
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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:48 pm

I think the issue with the radiator that you are referring to is whether a radiator for a 302 would be big enough for the 351W?? There is alot of speculation on this but I believe the stock radiators did not do a great job to begin with (flamesuit on). If you are going to upgrade to a new crate motor why not protect it by upgrading to a new radiator. All of the vendors sell a quality product. I bought mine from JBG. It is a large aluminum radiator with a built in tranny cooler. Use a quality water pump and a reputable t-stat and you should be fine.

Some additional points I found out:

Fan shoud is crucial to effective engine cooling. Keep it.
Flex fans are not worth the money for us (slow moving non-racing Broncos). Stick with the stock fan or one of BC Bronco's fixed blade fans.

If you get this crate motor, you have a choice to make. Stick with the water pump that it comes with (inlet on drver's side) - can be matched with a special radiator from the bronco houses with the outlets switched to match

or

Change the current water pump to one for the Bronco with the inlet on the pass side and a regular radiator.

There is even an adapter that can be used (length of curved aluminum pipe) that one of the Bronco houses sell to use the 5.0 type pump (driver's side) with a normal radiator (outlet on pass side).

Clear as mud? Hope it helps.

Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by TonyNokes » Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:41 pm

I think the radiator cofusion has to do with V-belts vs Serpintine belts. With the serp belt the water pump rotates backwards and the inlet in on the oposite side. 302/5.0L and 351/5.8L can run either belt system.

Tony
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Updated Pictures

Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:44 pm

Well I started on the SEFI swap today. Exciting and discouraging day.

I was able to remove all the front accessories, radiator, water pump, distributor and finally the carb intake. I put the original timing pointer on and made sure that it was at TDC before removing the distributor. No problems there.

Here are the pics of the teardown.
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Start.JPG
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WP Off.JPG
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Ready to remove intake.JPG
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Intake off.JPG
Intake off.JPG (91.12 KiB) Viewed 33525 times
Ready for gaskets.JPG
Ready for gaskets.JPG (88.48 KiB) Viewed 33525 times
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Fitment Problem

Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:50 pm

I still have to go and get some Right Stuff for the gaskets (the intake ends) but I did a test fit of the intake. Problems.

1. Had to "clearance" the firewall to fit the lower intake in around the driver's rear bolt.

2. I placed the upper intake on and have interference with the firewall again. If I push it back until it is in place, I am rubbing against the firewall. I really don't want to "clearance" this part of it.

I am thinking of going with a 3/8" spacer between the upper and lower to see if that helps, but I am open to ideas.

Any of you that have installed SEFI on a 351W, can you post up some pics of the area that I am showing below.

Thanks (a little discouraged)

Bill
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Interference1.JPG
Interference1.JPG (48.61 KiB) Viewed 33524 times
Interference2.JPG
Interference2.JPG (32.59 KiB) Viewed 33524 times
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Post by TonyNokes » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:02 pm

Hmmm, I am suprised it is so tight! Try loosening the engine and transfer case mounts then slding it forward as far a possible. Also try to get the engine mounts as low as possible on the frame bracketes. If that is not enough you might try and raise the transfer case mount a little.

Tony
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Post by Bandit » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:53 pm

I have a Wild Horses four core,I just thought with 351's the outlet and intake were reversed.I'll bet Saddleup can help you with that install,I think he has a simular set up.That engine and intake are a thing of beauty,gives me goosebumps looking at it,My wife says I'm a sick pup looking at engines and Broncos that way.She just came out scantily clad,waving the new bronco driver magazine......very funny,woman.
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Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:58 pm

Another pic from when I test fit the intake. :D As you can see, I am also working at awapping to serpentine at the same time. 93 Mustang brackets. Still have to get the AC eliminator bracket.
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Testing New Intake.JPG
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Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:59 am

Some more progress this morning with the lower intake installed. Last night I was able to take care of the clearance problem by jacking up the transmission crossmember and placing about 3/4" of washers in the bracket by the frame rail. This tilted the engine forward enough so that everything fits. I think this probably would have been easier if I had a taller body lift (only 1" WH B/L). The Painless wiring harness enters the engine compartment right by my driver's side valve cover. VERY TIGHT and a pain in the a$$ to get at that back bolt.

Used Felpro gaskets and "Right Stuff" for the ends. Put a little around the water passages. Used ARP studs for the lower. This allowed me to line up everything as I dropped the intake on. Tightened the intake to 20 ft/lbs. Started at 10, then again at 15, and then twice at 20. Should be good to go.

Just waiting on the water pump and 351W A/C eliminator braket to arrive by the brown truck.

The fancy chrome thermostat housing is being replaced by a stock iron one (needed the stock one to clear the serp setup).

Bill
Attachments
Lower Finished.JPG
Lower Finished.JPG (79.09 KiB) Viewed 33480 times
Lower Finished2.JPG
Lower Finished2.JPG (74.15 KiB) Viewed 33480 times
Tight VC clearance.JPG
Tight VC clearance.JPG (38.51 KiB) Viewed 33480 times
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Next Project Teaser

Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:05 am

Just a teaser photo of my next project waiting in the wings. Bought it for $300 of pure highway robbery. Even got it with the BW 1536 transfer case which I sold for $100. Had the trans checked out and there are zero issues with it. Just have to top off the fluid. Could not pass on it.

Now just have to decide:

1. NP205 (cheapest)
2. D20 w/BC Broncos adapter (pricey)
3. Atlas (very pricey but no adapters required)
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ZF Trans.JPG
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