Progress Pictures (Updated with New Paintjob)

Colors, replacement panels, paint, OEM and stock info.<br />
Seats, hard/soft tops, gauges, dash, etc.

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:15 am

Damn! I had just gotten to the point that I had convinced myself that I would only run a high pressure pump and no accumulator (based on alot of discussion on CB and comments from Saddleup).

I am going to give this a try (I still have the low pressure pump incase I have to start over):

Tank - Fram Filter - High Pressure Pump - HP Filter -Fuel Rails - Return to Tank

If it does not work out then:

Tank - Filter - LP Pump - Accumlator - HP Pump - HP Filter - Fuel Rails - Return to Accumulator - return to tank

This is like Chinese Math :roll:
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Bandit
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you did an awesome job!

Post by Bandit » Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:26 pm

wcdeod,you did a better job than me,and Ive been on mine for ten years.Damn I want to do a frame off!But when my peace of shit car goes down my '73 becomes my daily.Could you tell me something about your new crate motor?It seems that 351 crates and strokers are easier to find than bolt in 302's?Does that mean the radiator is reversed ,I mean the hoses,so that my new WH's four core would be obselete?Where did you get it,do you mind telling me what it costs,was it a pain,compared to not putting back the 302?What fuel system are you going with.Hey...damn nice work.
BANDIT
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Post by NicksTrix » Wed Jan 04, 2006 6:29 pm

use a water pump that exits from the r/s.
your new rad will be fine.

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:35 am

Bandit,

I am using a 351W crate motor from Ford Performance Parts (formerly known as FMS). Model M-6007-S58. It came as a complete crate motor with the following:

New (not reman engine)
Duraspark distributor
Aluminum 4bbl intake manifold
Water pump
balancer
HD Flywheel
Spark plugs and wires

See the attached picture. It came looking just like that. I bought it from Scoggin-Dickey (google internet) who had the lowest price of $2200. Figured it was less than a rebuild and all new and a step up to a 351W.

I use a stock type (yet new aluminum 4 core) radiator with a new water pump that has the inlet on the pass side (stock Bronco).
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M6007S58.jpg
M6007S58.jpg (93.71 KiB) Viewed 31074 times
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Bandit
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Hell yeah no rebuild!

Post by Bandit » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:51 pm

Im with you;every rebuild Ive bought ;piece of crap,I agree; crate motors save you in the long run.Does that mean a stock 302 radiator does work?I thought 351's meant changing the radiator to a different configuration?That motor is so awesome,I want one,maybe 2006 tax time!So what fuel system are you going with?
BANDIT
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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:39 pm

This one :thumbup: :thumbup:

I should be able to start the install the following week.

FMS 351W GT-40 lower
Cobra Upper
24lb injectors
1996 Explorer fuel rail
65mm Throttlebody
75mm Pro-M bullet MAF
A9L Computer
1991 TFI Distributor (coming in the mail)
Attachments
DSCN0126.JPG
DSCN0126.JPG (79.14 KiB) Viewed 31058 times
DSCN0125.JPG
DSCN0125.JPG (80.36 KiB) Viewed 31058 times
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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:48 pm

I think the issue with the radiator that you are referring to is whether a radiator for a 302 would be big enough for the 351W?? There is alot of speculation on this but I believe the stock radiators did not do a great job to begin with (flamesuit on). If you are going to upgrade to a new crate motor why not protect it by upgrading to a new radiator. All of the vendors sell a quality product. I bought mine from JBG. It is a large aluminum radiator with a built in tranny cooler. Use a quality water pump and a reputable t-stat and you should be fine.

Some additional points I found out:

Fan shoud is crucial to effective engine cooling. Keep it.
Flex fans are not worth the money for us (slow moving non-racing Broncos). Stick with the stock fan or one of BC Bronco's fixed blade fans.

If you get this crate motor, you have a choice to make. Stick with the water pump that it comes with (inlet on drver's side) - can be matched with a special radiator from the bronco houses with the outlets switched to match

or

Change the current water pump to one for the Bronco with the inlet on the pass side and a regular radiator.

There is even an adapter that can be used (length of curved aluminum pipe) that one of the Bronco houses sell to use the 5.0 type pump (driver's side) with a normal radiator (outlet on pass side).

Clear as mud? Hope it helps.

Bill
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Post by TonyNokes » Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:41 pm

I think the radiator cofusion has to do with V-belts vs Serpintine belts. With the serp belt the water pump rotates backwards and the inlet in on the oposite side. 302/5.0L and 351/5.8L can run either belt system.

Tony
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Updated Pictures

Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:44 pm

Well I started on the SEFI swap today. Exciting and discouraging day.

I was able to remove all the front accessories, radiator, water pump, distributor and finally the carb intake. I put the original timing pointer on and made sure that it was at TDC before removing the distributor. No problems there.

Here are the pics of the teardown.
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Start.JPG
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WP Off.JPG
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Ready to remove intake.JPG
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Intake off.JPG
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Ready for gaskets.JPG
Ready for gaskets.JPG (88.48 KiB) Viewed 30989 times
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Fitment Problem

Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:50 pm

I still have to go and get some Right Stuff for the gaskets (the intake ends) but I did a test fit of the intake. Problems.

1. Had to "clearance" the firewall to fit the lower intake in around the driver's rear bolt.

2. I placed the upper intake on and have interference with the firewall again. If I push it back until it is in place, I am rubbing against the firewall. I really don't want to "clearance" this part of it.

I am thinking of going with a 3/8" spacer between the upper and lower to see if that helps, but I am open to ideas.

Any of you that have installed SEFI on a 351W, can you post up some pics of the area that I am showing below.

Thanks (a little discouraged)

Bill
Attachments
Interference1.JPG
Interference1.JPG (48.61 KiB) Viewed 30988 times
Interference2.JPG
Interference2.JPG (32.59 KiB) Viewed 30988 times
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Post by TonyNokes » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:02 pm

Hmmm, I am suprised it is so tight! Try loosening the engine and transfer case mounts then slding it forward as far a possible. Also try to get the engine mounts as low as possible on the frame bracketes. If that is not enough you might try and raise the transfer case mount a little.

Tony
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Post by Bandit » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:53 pm

I have a Wild Horses four core,I just thought with 351's the outlet and intake were reversed.I'll bet Saddleup can help you with that install,I think he has a simular set up.That engine and intake are a thing of beauty,gives me goosebumps looking at it,My wife says I'm a sick pup looking at engines and Broncos that way.She just came out scantily clad,waving the new bronco driver magazine......very funny,woman.
BANDIT
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Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:58 pm

Another pic from when I test fit the intake. :D As you can see, I am also working at awapping to serpentine at the same time. 93 Mustang brackets. Still have to get the AC eliminator bracket.
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Testing New Intake.JPG
Testing New Intake.JPG (66.61 KiB) Viewed 30970 times
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Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:59 am

Some more progress this morning with the lower intake installed. Last night I was able to take care of the clearance problem by jacking up the transmission crossmember and placing about 3/4" of washers in the bracket by the frame rail. This tilted the engine forward enough so that everything fits. I think this probably would have been easier if I had a taller body lift (only 1" WH B/L). The Painless wiring harness enters the engine compartment right by my driver's side valve cover. VERY TIGHT and a pain in the a$$ to get at that back bolt.

Used Felpro gaskets and "Right Stuff" for the ends. Put a little around the water passages. Used ARP studs for the lower. This allowed me to line up everything as I dropped the intake on. Tightened the intake to 20 ft/lbs. Started at 10, then again at 15, and then twice at 20. Should be good to go.

Just waiting on the water pump and 351W A/C eliminator braket to arrive by the brown truck.

The fancy chrome thermostat housing is being replaced by a stock iron one (needed the stock one to clear the serp setup).

Bill
Attachments
Lower Finished.JPG
Lower Finished.JPG (79.09 KiB) Viewed 30944 times
Lower Finished2.JPG
Lower Finished2.JPG (74.15 KiB) Viewed 30944 times
Tight VC clearance.JPG
Tight VC clearance.JPG (38.51 KiB) Viewed 30944 times
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Next Project Teaser

Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:05 am

Just a teaser photo of my next project waiting in the wings. Bought it for $300 of pure highway robbery. Even got it with the BW 1536 transfer case which I sold for $100. Had the trans checked out and there are zero issues with it. Just have to top off the fluid. Could not pass on it.

Now just have to decide:

1. NP205 (cheapest)
2. D20 w/BC Broncos adapter (pricey)
3. Atlas (very pricey but no adapters required)
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ZF Trans.JPG
ZF Trans.JPG (59.49 KiB) Viewed 30941 times
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Post by billie » Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:23 pm

Is that a 542 or 547? My 542 is on the stand and just starting to overhaul it. I'll be interested in how it goes for you. I will get the tranny done but a long way from installing it. Just stripping the bronco to the frame right now. I bought the whole truck for the ZF so I have all the parts required, pedals, flywheel, clutch, starter and all. It was working great when I took it out but needs to be freshened and sealed up. The shift tower leaks quite a bit. Do you know anything about upgrading the 5th/R syncho to the 547 part? Its been said to be the weak link. :D

Cya
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Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:29 pm

Mine is a S5-42. Have no clue on how to overhaul it. ZF-Group website has alot of information and troubleshooting guides.

http://www.zf-group.com/am/pc/lt/ampclt.phtml

Hope it helps.

Bill
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Post by billie » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:10 pm

Tks. Been there and just about everywhere else. I may have a line on the tear down sheets from a shop here in town. I can copy you if you want them (if I get hem). Check out the post in drivetrain by "maverickconner", page 58, titled "ZF is now rebuilt". He mentions replacing the 5th/R syncro. Sound like a must. Hate to tear it back out once its in.
Does anyone out there have the R&R details???

Cya
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SERP setup installed

Post by wcdeod » Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:44 pm

After much nashing of teeth to figure out that I was missing a pice on the A/C eliminator, I finally was able to finish the serp install. Still need to get a fan and a puller to remove the pulley off my current PS pump. Probably get the radiator/fan protector from BC when I get the fan.

Anyone have a part number for a CCW 17" fixed blade fan? I do not want to use a flexfan.

Also, anyone know whether you use a 1/2" or 1" spacer with a mustang serp setup and 4 core aluminum radiator?
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SEFI_SERP2.JPG
SEFI_SERP2.JPG (78.36 KiB) Viewed 30790 times
SEFI_SERP.JPG
SEFI_SERP.JPG (87.75 KiB) Viewed 30790 times
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Post by Formerjughead » Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:07 am

Mother of God!!

Looks good

Brad
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Post by wcdeod » Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:15 am

Brad,

Thanks. Been a long time coming to get this close. I put my aluminum radiator back in to see how much space for a fan I will have. VERY close. I ordered the BCB Derale fixed blade 17" and a 1/2" spacer. I also got their radiator guard since I am close. Have my fingers crossed that it will all fit. Don't have the tools to move my rad futher forward and would rather not use an electric.

I post some more pics later this week when the parts come in and I get them installed. We'll see how it goes.

Still saving for Ryan's harness.

Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by wcdeod » Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:51 pm

Serpentine upgrade is complete.

I want to thank all the folks that answered about a million questions that I had during this upgrade. I finally finished it today and now I am just waiting on my RJM EFI harness and I might be on the road shortly.

I wanted to put some pics together and share some of the bumps in the road that I had with my particular application.

What I started with:

Ford Motorsports 351W crate motor (M-6007-S58) that I had setup with carb. Started my SEFI swap and Serp swap at about the same time.

JBG Aluminum 4 core radiator (Howe) with AT cooler.

What I bought:

Serpentine brackets/pulleys from a 1993 Mustang 5.0
A/C eliminator bracket for 351W.
Ford Water pump for Mustang (reverse rotation with DS inlet)
BC Broncos 17" Derale fixed blade fan (CCW)
1/2" Fan spacer

How it all went together:

Serpentine brackets were a direct swap and bolted right up to the waterpump and heads. Pulleys bolted right up. I swapped my V-belt PS pulley for the Mustang (I am running a late model Ford PS Pump). All the brackets and pulleys lined up with no spacers required. I also upgraded to a 160 amp 3G from RJM (can't beat his price) at the same time. You have to notched the alternator bracket slightly to allow the 3G to fit (see pick). A 1/2" fan spacer is plenty to keep the fan out of the belt (might be different with a flex fan). With my setup (PS, Alt, WP, Crank, A/C eliminator, no smog pump) I needed a 77.5" belt (Dayco 5060775).

You have to notch the stock fan shroud around the tensioner pulley arm slightly (about 1/2 - 3/4 inch).

The main issue that I ran into with the upgrade was due to my aftermarket aluminum radiator (you will probably not have these issues with a stock radiator). Since mine was about 4" thick, the fan ran way to close to the radiator at the bottom. I put a BCB fan guard on the radiator and the fan hit the guard. The solution was to cut the bottom mounting bracket to slide it back about 3/4 inch. I also made new upper brackets to pull the radiator closer to the core support. Now I know many of you have cut and moved the core support out (I would prefer to do this too) but I suffer from an acute case of "lackawelder". So I had to make due.

So now everything fits. The question of serpentine upgrade is raised here every now and then and since I did this on a 351W and is somewhat different than the 5.0 upgrade, I hope it may help some others in the future.

Here are some part numbers for reference:

Upper radiator hose: Goodyear XL60625 (1968 Pontiac GT with 400ci)
Fan belt: Dayco 5060775
Water pump: FMS-M-8501-C50
A/C Eliminator Kit: FMS-M-8511-A50 Accessory bracket P/S: FMS-M-8511-A351

Bill
Attachments
Serp_PS-Alt.JPG
Serp_Fan_New brackets.JPG
Serp_DS_PS Pump.JPG
Serp_3G.JPG
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by billie » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:01 pm

Very sweet, Bill.

Hope mine looks that good when I'm done. Do you have a pic of the whole truck or do we have to wait?

Cya
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Post by wcdeod » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:23 pm

Here is what it looks like now. Most of the upgrades I am doing now are under the hood.
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finished_back.jpg
finished_side.jpg
finished_front.jpg
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by billie » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:38 pm

Hey, that's my roll cage! I'm just building it now. I'm adding extra to the center hoop, either two or three loops but the assembly layout is the same. Did you tie to the frame?

Are those 33's or 35's? I'm curious about your tire carrier. Haven't designed mine yet but same idea as where yours is. I've got an old warn premium hub for center decoration.

TIA
Cya
ZF-Done; 5.0 HO-Done. Stripped to the frame. The loooong road back begins!

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