Progress Pictures (Updated with New Paintjob)

Colors, replacement panels, paint, OEM and stock info.<br />
Seats, hard/soft tops, gauges, dash, etc.

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:39 pm

This one :thumbup: :thumbup:

I should be able to start the install the following week.

FMS 351W GT-40 lower
Cobra Upper
24lb injectors
1996 Explorer fuel rail
65mm Throttlebody
75mm Pro-M bullet MAF
A9L Computer
1991 TFI Distributor (coming in the mail)
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DSCN0126.JPG
DSCN0126.JPG (79.14 KiB) Viewed 31879 times
DSCN0125.JPG
DSCN0125.JPG (80.36 KiB) Viewed 31879 times
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by wcdeod » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:48 pm

I think the issue with the radiator that you are referring to is whether a radiator for a 302 would be big enough for the 351W?? There is alot of speculation on this but I believe the stock radiators did not do a great job to begin with (flamesuit on). If you are going to upgrade to a new crate motor why not protect it by upgrading to a new radiator. All of the vendors sell a quality product. I bought mine from JBG. It is a large aluminum radiator with a built in tranny cooler. Use a quality water pump and a reputable t-stat and you should be fine.

Some additional points I found out:

Fan shoud is crucial to effective engine cooling. Keep it.
Flex fans are not worth the money for us (slow moving non-racing Broncos). Stick with the stock fan or one of BC Bronco's fixed blade fans.

If you get this crate motor, you have a choice to make. Stick with the water pump that it comes with (inlet on drver's side) - can be matched with a special radiator from the bronco houses with the outlets switched to match

or

Change the current water pump to one for the Bronco with the inlet on the pass side and a regular radiator.

There is even an adapter that can be used (length of curved aluminum pipe) that one of the Bronco houses sell to use the 5.0 type pump (driver's side) with a normal radiator (outlet on pass side).

Clear as mud? Hope it helps.

Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by TonyNokes » Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:41 pm

I think the radiator cofusion has to do with V-belts vs Serpintine belts. With the serp belt the water pump rotates backwards and the inlet in on the oposite side. 302/5.0L and 351/5.8L can run either belt system.

Tony
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Updated Pictures

Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:44 pm

Well I started on the SEFI swap today. Exciting and discouraging day.

I was able to remove all the front accessories, radiator, water pump, distributor and finally the carb intake. I put the original timing pointer on and made sure that it was at TDC before removing the distributor. No problems there.

Here are the pics of the teardown.
Attachments
Start.JPG
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WP Off.JPG
WP Off.JPG (75.25 KiB) Viewed 31810 times
Ready to remove intake.JPG
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Intake off.JPG
Intake off.JPG (91.12 KiB) Viewed 31810 times
Ready for gaskets.JPG
Ready for gaskets.JPG (88.48 KiB) Viewed 31810 times
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Fitment Problem

Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:50 pm

I still have to go and get some Right Stuff for the gaskets (the intake ends) but I did a test fit of the intake. Problems.

1. Had to "clearance" the firewall to fit the lower intake in around the driver's rear bolt.

2. I placed the upper intake on and have interference with the firewall again. If I push it back until it is in place, I am rubbing against the firewall. I really don't want to "clearance" this part of it.

I am thinking of going with a 3/8" spacer between the upper and lower to see if that helps, but I am open to ideas.

Any of you that have installed SEFI on a 351W, can you post up some pics of the area that I am showing below.

Thanks (a little discouraged)

Bill
Attachments
Interference1.JPG
Interference1.JPG (48.61 KiB) Viewed 31809 times
Interference2.JPG
Interference2.JPG (32.59 KiB) Viewed 31809 times
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Post by TonyNokes » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:02 pm

Hmmm, I am suprised it is so tight! Try loosening the engine and transfer case mounts then slding it forward as far a possible. Also try to get the engine mounts as low as possible on the frame bracketes. If that is not enough you might try and raise the transfer case mount a little.

Tony
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...

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Post by Bandit » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:53 pm

I have a Wild Horses four core,I just thought with 351's the outlet and intake were reversed.I'll bet Saddleup can help you with that install,I think he has a simular set up.That engine and intake are a thing of beauty,gives me goosebumps looking at it,My wife says I'm a sick pup looking at engines and Broncos that way.She just came out scantily clad,waving the new bronco driver magazine......very funny,woman.
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Post by wcdeod » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:58 pm

Another pic from when I test fit the intake. :D As you can see, I am also working at awapping to serpentine at the same time. 93 Mustang brackets. Still have to get the AC eliminator bracket.
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Testing New Intake.JPG
Testing New Intake.JPG (66.61 KiB) Viewed 31791 times
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Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:59 am

Some more progress this morning with the lower intake installed. Last night I was able to take care of the clearance problem by jacking up the transmission crossmember and placing about 3/4" of washers in the bracket by the frame rail. This tilted the engine forward enough so that everything fits. I think this probably would have been easier if I had a taller body lift (only 1" WH B/L). The Painless wiring harness enters the engine compartment right by my driver's side valve cover. VERY TIGHT and a pain in the a$$ to get at that back bolt.

Used Felpro gaskets and "Right Stuff" for the ends. Put a little around the water passages. Used ARP studs for the lower. This allowed me to line up everything as I dropped the intake on. Tightened the intake to 20 ft/lbs. Started at 10, then again at 15, and then twice at 20. Should be good to go.

Just waiting on the water pump and 351W A/C eliminator braket to arrive by the brown truck.

The fancy chrome thermostat housing is being replaced by a stock iron one (needed the stock one to clear the serp setup).

Bill
Attachments
Lower Finished.JPG
Lower Finished.JPG (79.09 KiB) Viewed 31765 times
Lower Finished2.JPG
Lower Finished2.JPG (74.15 KiB) Viewed 31765 times
Tight VC clearance.JPG
Tight VC clearance.JPG (38.51 KiB) Viewed 31765 times
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Next Project Teaser

Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:05 am

Just a teaser photo of my next project waiting in the wings. Bought it for $300 of pure highway robbery. Even got it with the BW 1536 transfer case which I sold for $100. Had the trans checked out and there are zero issues with it. Just have to top off the fluid. Could not pass on it.

Now just have to decide:

1. NP205 (cheapest)
2. D20 w/BC Broncos adapter (pricey)
3. Atlas (very pricey but no adapters required)
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ZF Trans.JPG
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Post by billie » Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:23 pm

Is that a 542 or 547? My 542 is on the stand and just starting to overhaul it. I'll be interested in how it goes for you. I will get the tranny done but a long way from installing it. Just stripping the bronco to the frame right now. I bought the whole truck for the ZF so I have all the parts required, pedals, flywheel, clutch, starter and all. It was working great when I took it out but needs to be freshened and sealed up. The shift tower leaks quite a bit. Do you know anything about upgrading the 5th/R syncho to the 547 part? Its been said to be the weak link. :D

Cya
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Post by wcdeod » Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:29 pm

Mine is a S5-42. Have no clue on how to overhaul it. ZF-Group website has alot of information and troubleshooting guides.

http://www.zf-group.com/am/pc/lt/ampclt.phtml

Hope it helps.

Bill
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Post by billie » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:10 pm

Tks. Been there and just about everywhere else. I may have a line on the tear down sheets from a shop here in town. I can copy you if you want them (if I get hem). Check out the post in drivetrain by "maverickconner", page 58, titled "ZF is now rebuilt". He mentions replacing the 5th/R syncro. Sound like a must. Hate to tear it back out once its in.
Does anyone out there have the R&R details???

Cya
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SERP setup installed

Post by wcdeod » Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:44 pm

After much nashing of teeth to figure out that I was missing a pice on the A/C eliminator, I finally was able to finish the serp install. Still need to get a fan and a puller to remove the pulley off my current PS pump. Probably get the radiator/fan protector from BC when I get the fan.

Anyone have a part number for a CCW 17" fixed blade fan? I do not want to use a flexfan.

Also, anyone know whether you use a 1/2" or 1" spacer with a mustang serp setup and 4 core aluminum radiator?
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SEFI_SERP2.JPG
SEFI_SERP2.JPG (78.36 KiB) Viewed 31552 times
SEFI_SERP.JPG
SEFI_SERP.JPG (87.75 KiB) Viewed 31552 times
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Post by Formerjughead » Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:07 am

Mother of God!!

Looks good

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Post by wcdeod » Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:15 am

Brad,

Thanks. Been a long time coming to get this close. I put my aluminum radiator back in to see how much space for a fan I will have. VERY close. I ordered the BCB Derale fixed blade 17" and a 1/2" spacer. I also got their radiator guard since I am close. Have my fingers crossed that it will all fit. Don't have the tools to move my rad futher forward and would rather not use an electric.

I post some more pics later this week when the parts come in and I get them installed. We'll see how it goes.

Still saving for Ryan's harness.

Bill
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Post by wcdeod » Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:51 pm

Serpentine upgrade is complete.

I want to thank all the folks that answered about a million questions that I had during this upgrade. I finally finished it today and now I am just waiting on my RJM EFI harness and I might be on the road shortly.

I wanted to put some pics together and share some of the bumps in the road that I had with my particular application.

What I started with:

Ford Motorsports 351W crate motor (M-6007-S58) that I had setup with carb. Started my SEFI swap and Serp swap at about the same time.

JBG Aluminum 4 core radiator (Howe) with AT cooler.

What I bought:

Serpentine brackets/pulleys from a 1993 Mustang 5.0
A/C eliminator bracket for 351W.
Ford Water pump for Mustang (reverse rotation with DS inlet)
BC Broncos 17" Derale fixed blade fan (CCW)
1/2" Fan spacer

How it all went together:

Serpentine brackets were a direct swap and bolted right up to the waterpump and heads. Pulleys bolted right up. I swapped my V-belt PS pulley for the Mustang (I am running a late model Ford PS Pump). All the brackets and pulleys lined up with no spacers required. I also upgraded to a 160 amp 3G from RJM (can't beat his price) at the same time. You have to notched the alternator bracket slightly to allow the 3G to fit (see pick). A 1/2" fan spacer is plenty to keep the fan out of the belt (might be different with a flex fan). With my setup (PS, Alt, WP, Crank, A/C eliminator, no smog pump) I needed a 77.5" belt (Dayco 5060775).

You have to notch the stock fan shroud around the tensioner pulley arm slightly (about 1/2 - 3/4 inch).

The main issue that I ran into with the upgrade was due to my aftermarket aluminum radiator (you will probably not have these issues with a stock radiator). Since mine was about 4" thick, the fan ran way to close to the radiator at the bottom. I put a BCB fan guard on the radiator and the fan hit the guard. The solution was to cut the bottom mounting bracket to slide it back about 3/4 inch. I also made new upper brackets to pull the radiator closer to the core support. Now I know many of you have cut and moved the core support out (I would prefer to do this too) but I suffer from an acute case of "lackawelder". So I had to make due.

So now everything fits. The question of serpentine upgrade is raised here every now and then and since I did this on a 351W and is somewhat different than the 5.0 upgrade, I hope it may help some others in the future.

Here are some part numbers for reference:

Upper radiator hose: Goodyear XL60625 (1968 Pontiac GT with 400ci)
Fan belt: Dayco 5060775
Water pump: FMS-M-8501-C50
A/C Eliminator Kit: FMS-M-8511-A50 Accessory bracket P/S: FMS-M-8511-A351

Bill
Attachments
Serp_PS-Alt.JPG
Serp_Fan_New brackets.JPG
Serp_DS_PS Pump.JPG
Serp_3G.JPG
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Post by billie » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:01 pm

Very sweet, Bill.

Hope mine looks that good when I'm done. Do you have a pic of the whole truck or do we have to wait?

Cya
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Post by wcdeod » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:23 pm

Here is what it looks like now. Most of the upgrades I am doing now are under the hood.
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finished_back.jpg
finished_side.jpg
finished_front.jpg
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Post by billie » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:38 pm

Hey, that's my roll cage! I'm just building it now. I'm adding extra to the center hoop, either two or three loops but the assembly layout is the same. Did you tie to the frame?

Are those 33's or 35's? I'm curious about your tire carrier. Haven't designed mine yet but same idea as where yours is. I've got an old warn premium hub for center decoration.

TIA
Cya
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Post by wcdeod » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:48 pm

Rollcage was made by a FJ-40 guy back when I lived in SLC, Utah.

Tires are 33x12.50/15 MTRs. Should have gone with 35s. Lesson learned.

Rear tire carrier was made by a guy in the USAF in SD that used to make them years ago. I don't think he makes them anymore (had health issues with his child.)

Bill
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Post by Formerjughead » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:17 pm

That looks good ..............How is the paint job holding up?


Brad
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Post by billie » Sun Mar 19, 2006 8:17 pm

If you get a chance, I'd like to see the tire mount. No hurry since it's aways down the road for me. The 35's are an old choice that makes more sense every time I see them on an EB.

I changed my cage design cause my bender is gouchy with a 90 bend in .192 pipe. Your design doesn't have any 90's which is where I ended up. I want my own builds to be unique so that's why I'm going to a double or triple loop. Haven't seen anything like that yet ( i'm thinking triple loop and double back. Have to assemble the parts and decide after I see it).

Sure don't want to sound too personal or anything like that, but, DAMN, that truck looks great. That color was my choice in my mustang but couldn't find one avaulable when I bought it. I ended buying a red one and some dumb B***h creamed me. The new one is blue so the bronco is going red. Mazda Miata I think.

Cya and happy trails.
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Post by wcdeod » Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:13 am

Well it has been a while since I updated where I am at.

Finally received the RJM harness and most people were right that it was worth waiting for. Really nice harness and it lays out perfectly in the engine bay.

Most of the harness is hooked up. I still have to get the O2 sensors and cut the hole in the firewall for the ECM section of the harness. I am waiting on one part before doing this that will be a neat trick for the ECM (you will have to wait until I finish it before I tell you what I am doing)

Once the ECM is in place, I will run a test of the fuel system to check for leaks.

Headers and exhaust will be ordered in about a week (BC Broncos) and then I can get this on the road.

Final checklist of to-do's:

- Install heater hoses. I have to figure this one out still to get the right application for the bends. I have the stock Mustang heater pipe that goes along the top of the intake manifold. I have to work out the bends for the hoses in the rear. Anyone do this yet and have part numbers??

- K&N filter. Already figured out the application number

- Finish the BC Bronco EFI throttle cable. Just need to cut it to length and attach to the pedal.

- Buy an upper radiator hose (1968 Pontiac GTO w/400)

- I am going to go thru my grounds one more time and upgrade my engine to frame, frame to body, body to engine ground cables. Don't want to fry my new A9L.

- Finish spark plug wires / buy a coil.

- Mark damper at 10 BTDC for when I time the engine on initial startup.

Pictures show the SEFI installed and gives an idea of how high the intake sits. 1" body lift. 351W GT-40 lower, Cobra upper with 3/8 spacer.
Attachments
351W SEFI_MAF.JPG
351W SEFI Front.JPG
351W SEFI Pass Side Clearance.JPG
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Post by twisted77 » Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:07 am

who did you get the wireing harness from?


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Post by wcdeod » Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:22 am

Twisted,

Body wiring harness is the Painless Harness.

Fuel Injection wiring harness was Ryan's harness. Made specifically to put SEFI into a Bronco.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=24
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Post by wcdeod » Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:07 pm

SEFI swap finished.

After an enormously long time in the making, I finally heard the beast roar to life today at 1600 (4 pm for non-military folks).

The procedure would have been comical to watch. Everything hooked up, the key turned to "on", wife, with one hand grounding the fuel pumps at the test circuit, somehow holding two fire extinguishers at the ready....fuel pumps engage and I am running around and rolling under the truck frantically searching for high powered fuel leaks, images of a massive fire in the back of my head.

Whew, no leaks....now on to phase two. Start the truck. It comes to life....and then stalls. Try again and it runs a little better.....must be the computer learning....idles settles down a little and it stays running.

It smells bad! Remind wife that it is not running rich, I'm too smart for that.....ah, yes, the new BCB headers and exhaust are burning off there coatings.

I let it run for awhile checking the temp and fuel pressure, looking (albeit less frantically) for leaks...idle gets a little better.

Initial observations:

1. Fuel pressure is 34psi at idle, rock steady. Should it be higher?
2. Idle still lopes a bit. I do not have an agressive cam at all, should be rather mild. Probably still the computer learning.
3. Codes that I pulled are 81, 82, 84, 85 which should be normal with the RJM harness.
4. HP fuel pump had no issue drawing fuel from the tank (WH 24gal). Took about 10 seconds on initial priming to get 34psi at the rails.
5. All the injectors are firing. Heard them ticking using a metal rod.

Still left to do:

1. Get O2 sensor bungs welded in. Can I drive, as is, for a few miles to get to a shop without them?
2. Finish hooking up the BCB EFI throttle cable. I hate cutting the cable and getting it to go into the little end bracket thingy, always fray the cable (from doing this on the carb throttle cable).


Bill
Attachments
HP Fuel Pump.JPG
EFI Side2.JPG
EFI Side.JPG
EFI Front.JPG
EFI.JPG
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by highlander » Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:44 am

You should be fine driven w/o the o2 sensors, not having them is why it is rough idling. It is running in closed loop. everthing looks good.

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Post by Bandit » Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:52 pm

Well I've been watching this post for a long time.You can most definitetly be proud of the first class job you have done.Congradulations on a fantastic rebuild.Could you give me any feed back on the painless install.I've had that box sitting here ,but I get very nervous about messing up that harness?I will be starting on that as soon as I get the C-4 redone,and start on installing the 351 crate motor ,I have on the stand.Which one did you go with,and could you tell me which way you went reference the pulley system?Did you go with the 250 hp Ford crate?Dd you have to swap out the oilpan ,and switch the waterpump to the other side.
Thanks
Bandit
currie 9",nodular iron,arb,4.56's,35 spline,original radio!

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Allen
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Post by Allen » Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:59 pm

"2. Finish hooking up the BCB EFI throttle cable. I hate cutting the cable and getting it to go into the little end bracket thingy, always fray the cable (from doing this on the carb throttle cable)."

I have never tried this in a vehicle appliction, but on my kids bicycle when I need to trim a cable I solder the area where the cut is made. Cuts clean, no fray!
Allen
1970 Bronco, 5.0 SEFI/NV3550/dana 20, 5.5" total lift, 4whl PDB, Dana 44, BB 9", and alot more money!

1966 Bronco in a box

*When sending your wife down the road with a gas can, it is impolite to ask her to bring back beer too!

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Oct 03, 2006 2:45 pm

Bandit wrote:Well I've been watching this post for a long time.You can most definitetly be proud of the first class job you have done.Congradulations on a fantastic rebuild.Could you give me any feed back on the painless install.I've had that box sitting here ,but I get very nervous about messing up that harness?I will be starting on that as soon as I get the C-4 redone,and start on installing the 351 crate motor ,I have on the stand.Which one did you go with,and could you tell me which way you went reference the pulley system?Did you go with the 250 hp Ford crate?Dd you have to swap out the oilpan ,and switch the waterpump to the other side.
Thanks
Bandit
Bandit,

Thanks for the comments. Appreciate it. I will attempt to answer your questions:

1. Painless Harness. Truely painless and fairly easy install. Only thing that made it even slightly hard was that I had pulled out all my old wiring so long ago. Lay it out on the floor next to your truck and go thru your instructions a few times to get comforable a few times. Only snafu that I had was with the horn. I did not have the relay plugged in. Painless support was fairly responsive - keep talking to the same guy if you have to call back.

2. I bought the Ford motorsport M-6007-S58 which is the 250hp truck engine. Very happy with it and I could not beat the price. I put the Mustang conversion oil pan with the rear sump on it. Make sure you replace the pickup with the one in the kit. Buy from summit and not the Bronco houses as it is cheaper there. I put the stock mustang serpentine water pump on it. I am running the crossover pipe at the bottom and the GTO upper hose. I went with the 88-93 Mustang serp setup and the RJM 3G alt. i had to move the radiator forward about 2" to clear. Used the BCB reverse rotation fan and stock fan shroud. JBG 4 core aluminum radiator (marked Howe on the box). If you have a stock radiator, you might not have to move it forward as my 4 core was fairly thick.

Thanks again
Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Bandit
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Post by Bandit » Tue Oct 03, 2006 3:57 pm

Thanks a bunch for the response.Thats the same engine I have sitting right here on the stand.Honestly,I wanted a roller motor,but I'll take a new motor over a rebuild any day(of course depending who the rebuilder is,I'd take one of my Granddads motors anyday).I guess that means your belt set up is on the new mustang side ,instead of the EB side?I'm a fool,I order from the venders,I don't want problems.I have sitting here the Bronco oil pan,Flowcooler water pump,66-77 timing chain cover.I'm not clear if serpentine is worth it for me,some would say that a waterpump robs Horsepower,but how much will we squeeze from a flat tappet cam truck motor any hoo?Have you redone you're core support and fender aprons and such,thats what is holding me back.I didn't have time to work on the Bronco,took a new job,and today they ceased operations here.Now I'm desperately seeking a good job,but have lots of time.
Bandit
currie 9",nodular iron,arb,4.56's,35 spline,original radio!

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wcdeod
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Post by wcdeod » Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:06 pm

You actually have a roller motor as it is roller cam ready. Just get the roller cam you want. The spider, pushrods, dogbones, roller lifters should be stock Ford roller stuff. Basically your lifter well, below the intake, is already tapped for the spider.

The water pump inlet is on the dirver's side vice the Bronco's pass side. You can get a crossover tube from BC Broncos to connect your current radiator to the WP.

More info on my serp swap:

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80131

Info and results from my PS Pump braket issue (solution is at the end of the thread)

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76583

Hope it helps. You can also email me at: wcdeod at earthlink.net
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Bandit
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Post by Bandit » Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:47 pm

I did not know about the crossover,I will get right on that, thanks.I would rather leave the factory engine alone now that I have it.If I can, I would leave the factory water pump and timing chain alone.
Thank you
Bandit
currie 9",nodular iron,arb,4.56's,35 spline,original radio!

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Post by wcdeod » Wed Oct 04, 2006 2:56 pm

No need to change your timing chain or cover, just the WP. If you put a Bronco WP on it, it will cover up the stock timing pointer. Not a real big deal but for me it was easier to get a stock 5.0 reverse rotation WP and the crossover pipe. Kept the stock timing chain, cover, and timing pointer and ran the rest with the serp setup.

Crossover tube from BCB is in the link below. Hope it helps.

http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info ... cts_id=579

Bill
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by rstarr » Wed Nov 15, 2006 12:53 pm

What is goin on with your rocker panels?

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Post by wcdeod » Wed Nov 15, 2006 4:48 pm

The bottoms of them were rusted out so I cut them off about 1" below the bottom of the door. Plan to weld up some 2x6 rock skis to protect that area of the body. I will then trim the flares to match the rock skis.
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by rstarr » Wed Nov 15, 2006 5:11 pm

I like the look. Nice job by the way. It is looking great. How is that EFI working out? I hope it was worth it. Sometimes all the extra work makes it that much more enjoyable when its done.

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Post by wcdeod » Fri Nov 17, 2006 5:31 am

EFI works well so far. Only issue that I have is that the external fuel pump does not have a valve to maintain the fuel pressure after you shut the engine off. I got an inline valve from aeromotive that should fix the problem. Just took a little longer to start after it sits for awhile. Pressure would only hold for about 20 minutes after shutting it off. Thought it was the pressure regulator until a did a bunch of searching on Corral.net.

Have not run it on the road that much as I am in the middle of a ZF swap for the next week or so. Pulled the 77 C4 out (for sale - see section) and separated the transfer case, cleaned it up and I am awaiting the ZF kit from BCB.
70EB, 351W SEFI, ZF, D20, 3.5"SL, 1"BL, 35" KM2s on polished Slots, Sunburst Orange Metallic

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Post by broncomaster » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:32 pm

How about if you cycle the key a couple times to build up the pressure. Buy the way your project is very squared away. Keep up the great work!!!
1966 Bronco 170 3 speed 4.11 lockers front and rear "Grandpa's Bronco"
1969 Bronco 289 435 3.5 lift 35X 10.50 boggers My off road warrior.
1974 Bronco explorer 302 auto wifes bronco "sold"
1976 Bronco 351W 435 twin sticks bestop full cage 2006 ranger split bench twin batterys hella headlights. My parts runner cruiser"For Sale"
1993 Bronco XLT 351w EAOD Daily driver Tow rig.

"Keep fixin till it is broken"

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