68 Bronco Build Part One

Colors, replacement panels, paint, OEM and stock info.
Seats, hard/soft tops, gauges, dash, etc.

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68 Bronco Build Part One

Post by jprangenberg » Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:59 pm

Hi all, I have finally bit the bullet and tore the Bronco apart. Plan was to clean it good and paint. Two days later I realized that I should just start from the very beginning. I hate to type, so I only write what is important. I figured the best way to go about the project is to remove EVERYTHING. I was able, with the help of 2 friends to completely tear the entire Bronco apart in 3 days. The vehicle has no rust, thanks to the thickest undercoating I have ever seen. The PO even coated the engine bay and hood. With the engine and tranny, gas tanks, el wiring harness out, I send it out for a soda-blasting job at Anacapa Soda Blasting in Oxnard. Good people with expert staff. Check out the before and after pics.
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Post by jprangenberg » Sat Feb 27, 2010 9:12 pm

Once the soda blasting was done, I was able to install a 2-inch body lift. I wanted the lift installed prior to taking it to the body shop. I will have them spray bed liner inside the tub once the paintjob is done, so I wanted the body lift hardware covered as well. Boy this all happened in less than 2 weeks. I’m sore but now I can concentrate on getting the tranny and engine looked at.

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Post by Tom Dummer » Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:07 pm

Not seein any after shots.
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Post by jprangenberg » Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:25 pm

All pictures I took lately are too big in size and I need to shrink them to post. I have tons of pics and post soon. Have a great day

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Post by jprangenberg » Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:04 pm

I finally got a chance to reduce the picture size, so now I can post some of them. For those who are currently looking to kick off their bronco project here is some advice. Buy some Ziploc bags, actually buy plenty. As I was pulling off hardware, I labeled the clear plastic bag and filled it with the appropriate hardware. Many fasteners that I pulled off where corroded and would need much time cleaning. I bough a totally stainless full body hardware kit that replaced many of those old, rusted nuts and bolts and I even went so far as to buy a stainless hardtop and engine kit. I live very close to the coast so corrosion is somewhat of a problem. Also, have a plan. I wrote out in what order I wanted to tear the bronco apart. Wit the assistance of 2 friends for two days and myself for one day. I was able to remove everything off this vehicle. I broke it into major components, such as interior, exterior, engine, transmission, undercarriage. Lastly I took out the dash and wiring harness. When I was done, I loaded the Bronco onto my trailer and send it out to have the bottom soda blasted. Here are, finally, the before and after pics.
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Post by jprangenberg » Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:33 pm

Here is some more advice. Since I started to purchase Bronco parts over 6 month ago, I lost track of what had been previously purchased and what still needed to be bought. Make a list and cross off what has been bought. Also, make some room on a shelf and keep your parts together. I bought a roll cage from Wild Horses 6 months ago and the pouch containing the mounting hardware as well as the front mounting plates went AWOL. Only after cutting new front mounts, did I find the pack. Lessons learned. I since moved everything into one area, where I have the hardware nicely stacked and labeled. I welded the cage instead of using the trough bolts for the center loop and the aft braces. I think this will be ultimately stronger in the long run. Also, I welded on some Oh Sh** handles for my wife. Have not figured out where to mount the new 3-point seatbelt harness, but I will measure and weld once it is all done. I was not able to reuse any of the rubber pieces, so that will get pricey. After 42 years, I did not expect much from the weather stripping. The chrome is in relatively good shape but I have decided to loose all the chrome and have it powder coated satin black. I also decided to replace the original rear seat. If anyone is interested, let me know. I bought the fold and tumble from Wild Horses. It will work better for my kids in the back. The PO had undercoated the hood as well, so I had it soda blasted too. I welded some louvers onto the hood to allow for better ventilation. That proved to be difficult since the metal on the hood is pretty thin. I got some hotspot deformities that will have to be worked out. Taking a Bronco apart is not very hard. The hard part will be putting everything back together and make it fit. I don’t know if you can see it in the pictures but I installed the 2-inch body lift already. Hat was pretty straightforward. But do keep in mind; I had already pulled the motor, trany and fuel tanks. Or those who are looking to do a body lift, I found the two behind the drivers and passengers seat a little harder. Thos two have tabs to keep the old mount from falling out. I had to cut the tab to get the mount out. The new set went in easy. Left side first, then right side. Took 2 hours.
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Post by jprangenberg » Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:53 pm

Here are some shots at the body shop. The paint on this vehicle was in pretty bad shape. We are sanding the vehicle to bare metal and then skim coat the exterior to achieve ultimate smoothness. Several coats of primer with in between sanding will be done before the paint is applied. They did find a few, small dents and imperfections in the outer body. I had about 30 holes the PO have previously drilled into the floor and 20 more into the tailgate that we had to weld shut. I did not like the small mirrors the bronco came with, so those holes where welded shut as well. Also, this Bronco originally came with a manual transmission that had been replaced with a C4 automatic. The hole in the floorboard for the clutch pedal was welded shut as well. The original roll bar mounting holes where weld shut as well since they did not line up for the new cage. After removing the engine, trany and transfer case, I removed the gas tanks and wiring harness. So I was not worried about welding right above where the tanks are usually located. You can see the results of the soda-blasting job all the way into the engine bay. The Bronco will be painted 1969 Hemi Orange, including under the hood. The lower carriage will be primed and painted flat black. The hardtop will be painted satin black. The inside will be orange but the floor will receive bed liner coating in black.
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Post by jprangenberg » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:40 pm

Today is the big day of painting the tub, fenders and front clip. Can't wait to see the results. I decided to keep the original 68 hood. For better heat loss, I purchased one set of louvers, made of 14 ga steel from Ebay. I cut the hood just outside the raised portion of the hood in the back half and carefully welded in the louvers. That was harder that I tought. Welding thin metal takes some serious patience. I ended up welding a doubler plate on the back for strength. The bodyshop cleaned up the louvers nice. Here are a couple of pictures for you to check out.
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Post by captain nemo » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:54 pm

so why didn't you have your hood louvered? I had somebody louver mine for about 80 bucks, But then again that was probably 12 years ago
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Post by jprangenberg » Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:49 am

In order for it to work better as a heat loss escape, I wanted the louvers as far back as possible without being on top of the dash shelf of the firewall. There is a cross brace on the hood and I was told that in order for them to louver it they needed access from both sides. That would have meant for them to louver it kind of where your louvers are. With the fan turning and heat rising, I thought the best place to vent was in the back of the hood.

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Post by jprangenberg » Fri Mar 12, 2010 2:26 pm

Well we are finally ready to apply some paint to all the different parts. The fenders, doors and tailgate are done. The inside of the hardtop is done as well. We sanded in between the 3 coats of primer and in between the 3 coats of paint. Lastly a clear coat was applied. The inner fenders will receive spray-on bed liner and so will the under side of the hood. The tub will be painted next week as will the outside hard top. We decided to shoot the hemi orange first. It has a little metallic flakes in the paint that looks really good in the sun.
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Post by DirtDonk » Sat Mar 13, 2010 12:59 am

Boy that's bright!
What color are you using? I didn't see whether you said already or not.

Paul
'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

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Post by jprangenberg » Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:40 am

The color is 1969 Hemi Orange. It is a bright orange which will look very nice with a satin black hard top. I will most likely powder coat all remaining chrome parts satin black too. The bumpers will be painted black also. So ultimately it should even out some of the brighness. :-)

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Post by jprangenberg » Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:03 pm

New updates are comming really soon. The Bronco is back home and the paintshop did a good job. I'm sand blasting every night after work to clean parts for painting. The motor is still in the shop. I decided to pay the extra $200 to have the motor ballanced. Motor should be done this week. The next big thing will be the installation of a 2.5 inch suspesion lift. With the 2 inch body lift and 33" tires I think I will have a nice setup. Pictures comming ASAP

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Post by DirtDonk » Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:22 am

Glad you went the extra bit with the engine. Not many do, but I've always felt that it was worth it just to get that teeny bit of extra (potential) smoothness out of it.
Yeah, just putting it back together as-is, can net you a fairly smooth running engine, most of the time, but I like going that extra mile.
It seems pricey, but it's all about the labor baby! Not much in materials usually, but lots of expensive equipment that sits idle most of the time, and some machinist that takes hours of his/her time to tweak with your stuff.

Can't wait to see engine pics when it's back home. AND, more body pics as it goes together.

Paul
'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM :mrgreen:

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Post by jprangenberg » Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:50 pm

I almost did not do it. I tried really hard to stick to a budget but then realized that this is a Bronco and no one ever gets to stick to their budget. At some point I realized that I need to do this right. So although looks are important to me, safety and serviceability is even more important. Now I'm at the drawing board trying to figure out a cool front and rear bumper project. I have a winch that needs to be incorporated into the bumper. I decided against mounting the winch on top of the bumper and blocking the radiator air intake. I want to add a brush guard too. The rear needs to incorporate a tire carrier and a way to mount 2 Jerry cans, a small cool box and a pioneer kit, oh and the trusty HiLift jack too. Ill get some pics this week for you all.

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Post by DirtDonk » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:01 pm

Two possible alternative mounting types. You could use the cradle and receiver tube type. That way you can just leave it home most of the time so you're not carrying it around with you all the time. Throw it in when you're going off-road.
Or you could mount it (assuming it's a low-profile winch that is) to the crossmember beneath the engine with a roller fairlead on a more compact bumper.
Either one could be a possible method for you perhaps?

Paul
'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM :mrgreen:

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Post by jprangenberg » Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:01 pm

I like it, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks

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Post by jprangenberg » Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:39 pm

Here are some pictures of the new paintjob and the interior bed liner. Also, the roll cage was painted satin black. I’m going to paint all chrome, sating black for a uniform effect. The only place where I don’t care about chrome is under the hood. The color is 1969 hemi orange and has some metalic flakes in it. It chages color depending how bright the sun happens to be. You see some change by the camera's flash. It looks great with the satin black offset.
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Post by jprangenberg » Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:56 pm

Some more
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Post by DirtDonk » Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:19 pm

Very cool.
It may just be the camera angle, but it's interesting how the louvers just disappear when viewed from the opposite direction.

Keep the pics coming!

Paul
'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM :mrgreen:

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Post by jprangenberg » Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:24 pm

You are right, the louvers kind of blend in from the front and do not take away from the original lines. Thanks.

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Post by thebuzzard » Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:07 am

What kind of bed liners did you use??

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Post by jprangenberg » Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:20 am

Herkuliner, not sure if I spelled it right. Pretty tuff stuff. It is very rough, but affords a really good footing and I hope it will assist with a little noise dampening. I want to be able to hose out the Bronco after a weekend at the beach, so carpet was never an option.

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Post by willd » Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:18 am

Did you do the Herculiner yourself?
Did it go in very easy?
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Post by jprangenberg » Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:27 am

No, the bodyshop sparyed it for me. Because work was slow, they threw in extra labor as long as I paid for the extra materials. That is how I got them to shoot the frame satin black and weld up all those holes the PO drilled.

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Post by willd » Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:02 am

I'm trying to decide if I'm going to do that.
I might just go the Line-X route. We'll see.

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Post by DirtDonk » Wed Apr 21, 2010 12:05 pm

Yeah, that Herculiner stuff is pretty rough. You should have no problem hosing it out. And I would think it would dampen sounds somewhat. Just by coating the metal it changes the harmonics. I think because it's so stiff though, it still transmits some of the sounds. Just not as much as bare metal.
So you should be good there too.

Oh, but watch out for those bare knees and elbows!!! Working on hands and knees inside takes on a whole new meaning with that stuff, that's fo sho.
For that reason too, never spray it on the top deck of the doors. The bed-rail is one thing, but it'll make short work of turning your inner forearm into mince-meat.

Paul
'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM :mrgreen:

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Post by willd » Wed Apr 21, 2010 2:09 pm

Does Line-X end up as rough?
'66 Stock 289, NP435, 3.5" James Duff, 33's

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Post by jprangenberg » Wed Apr 21, 2010 2:14 pm

Aready ate my knee cap off. Now I use a moving blanket to sit or lay on while working on the inside.

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Post by DirtDonk » Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:22 pm

willd wrote:Does Line-X end up as rough?
Can't say from personal experience, but many of them are fairly rough to the touch. Someone here may know, but when comparing brands, it's a good idea to ask them that exact question or look closely at the samples they show you.
There are a few that are quite soft and/or lightly textured, so don't have the same rough (sharp actually) edges.

Paul
'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM :mrgreen:

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Post by thebuzzard » Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:04 am

I bought one called Raptor liner. I haven't sprayed it yet, I'm still on the fence wether to do the fender wells or not.
It's a two part polyurathane and the kit comes with the gun to spray it. The sample I looked at had texture but it was pretty smooth.
I found a long thread about it on one of the j**p fourms and most of those guys seemed very happy with it.

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Post by jprangenberg » Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:34 am

There was enough stuff left so we sprayed the inside of the fenders too. This stuff is too expenside to waste and the fenderwells take a beating with rocks etc. Although the texture is rough, it does not look bad at all.

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Post by Brandon » Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:54 am

thebuzzard wrote:I bought one called Raptor liner. I haven't sprayed it yet, I'm still on the fence wether to do the fender wells or not.
It's a two part polyurathane and the kit comes with the gun to spray it. The sample I looked at had texture but it was pretty smooth.
I found a long thread about it on one of the j**p fourms and most of those guys seemed very happy with it.
Yes the the Raptor liner is some good stuff. I have seen it in a friends Bronco. Once I get my floor boards replaced I will be doing the Raptor myself. It finishes fairly smooth 8)
There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

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Post by jprangenberg » Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:05 pm

Here is an update. Although the Bronco has been back home for almost 3 weeks, I have no time to put it back together. The best I can do right now is to work on small sub components. One of these was the heater box. When I pulled the heater box, I realized the heater core had and was probably still leaking. Inside the box I found 40 years of grime, dirt and mossy type of broken down foam padding. In one word: NASTY. I drilled out the rivets and opened the whole; case to check for damage. The two flappers where corroded and the entire inside had corrosion as well. I bought a used sand blasting cabinet and have been using it quite a bit. For this project I used it a lot. To be quite honest, if I would have know that it would cost $150 in parts and about 6 hours of work, I would have opted to buy one of those after market Mojave heaters. Previously some of you gave me good info on how to get better air movement by upgrading the motor and hamster wheel with a GM type blower motor, part# 35588 PM105 and a GM type blower motor wheel, part# 35601. This setup cost only $30. No big deal. This was not a direct bolt-in conversion. The hamster wheel is much larger and did not fit into the original hole. Also, the depth was more than the allotted 3.5 inches available. Check the pictures, but I had to bent the cowling intake shroud with pliers to get the extra ¼â€
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Post by jprangenberg » Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:07 pm

Here are more
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Post by jprangenberg » Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:14 pm

I knew that I wanted to upgrade to a dual battery system. Most Broncos I have seen that have dual batteries, have each battery tucked in front of the fender well, one on each side. I wanted to try something different. I was able to build a dual battery tray and mounted it where the original battery tray had been previously mounted. To enhance stability, the tray is not only bolted to the two original mounting brackets, but also to the front clip support. I went with a heavy-duty 2â€
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Post by jprangenberg » Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:36 pm

I knew from previous experience that once I install the front portion of the roll cage, the front passenger tube would interfere with the glove compartment door. I considered cutting or relocation the door. When I saw BC Bronco’s “new dash #4â€
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Post by gambling209 » Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:51 am

line-x can be sprayed how ever you want. it can be sprayed ruff or smooth. my neighbor has a line-x business. just a question, what does it cost to have a bronco soda blasted? did you have the inside and top done as well? very nice by the way.

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Post by jprangenberg » Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:07 pm

I paid $550 to have the entire underbody and frame and axles soda blasted. It PO had put such a thick coat of under coating which protected the Bronco from rust but looked really, really bad. The way this place operated was, you pay for 8 hours of blasting, then it costs $50 and hour. The Bronco is not a large vehicle, so they ended up shooting the engine bay too. I really recommend soda blasting. The results are stunning.

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