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23 gal rear fuel tank - ??

 
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Stan
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: 23 gal rear fuel tank - ?? Reply with quote

Ok - for you guys who are using the 23 gal rear tank that WHs and TBPS sell ; Do they fill/take fuel fairly easy ? - unlike my factory 12.5 gal . that I have to ease it in there.
Also ; how accurate on your fuel gage have you found the pickup tube/ float to be? Are they semi calibrated from the vendor or did you have to adjust them yourself before install ?
It looks like the 23 gal tank sits down about 3" lower than the factory tank except toward the bumper where it's the same depth. Anyone notice a loss useable of ground clearance ?
Stan

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regshawn
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stan... it takes it full throttle and deeper then a Salem girl! Wink
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Stan
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL
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DirtDonk
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Stan.
The tanks do hang lower, so depending on your wheeling style, it might or might not be an issue. The NWMP type (forgot the new name again!) does not hang as low as the Sherman, but is held on by a strap that can be troublesome if wheeled very hard.
I ran mine for 15 years or so and even landed on it a few times, with no real trouble other than some slight denting. However, friends of mine using the same tank have literally had it fall out on the trail because they'd whacked it so hard so many times that the deformation and loosening of the strap allowed the J-bolt to pop out.
A little bending of the strap, some weld-washers and bolts (in place of the J-bolt and t-slot) got rid of that issue forever. The tank is still semi-mangled, but won't be falling out anytime soon.
In my mind, lower is a reasonable compromise for the larger capacity. But if you're a wheelin' demon, and not easy on your equipment, then one of the other styles, or a custom might be in order.

The filling is quite nice. I don't remember hearing of anyone complaining about any of the aftermarket tanks being hard to fill.
About the only thing I would worry about is filling any of them to the top. Because they are (most of them anyway?) made without the filler neck protruding down into the tank, there is very little air space at the top for expansion. I don't know why, but I've never had any expansion overflowing out of my filler. But theoretically it should happen often with a fully filled tank.
Just something to be aware of.

As for the gauges? We do in fact verify (and tweak if needed) that every sending unit falls within the factory specifications. However, that RARELY ends up with an accurately reading gauge. Unfortunately.
The ONLY way to do a correct installation of a new unit, whether factory replacement OR an aftermarket type, is to connect it to the system before installing it in the tank. Turn on the key and check it through it's entire range. Then, if needed, bend and tweak the arm and stops until your gauge reads within a satisfactory range. I adjusted mine so that it read just above full and just below empty. You might like yours another way, but that's how most of the cars I've ever driven in read, so that's what I'm used to.

There is somewhat of a disconnect between accuracy down to the gallon and the time/distance the needle travels in the gauge at different points of fill. Similar to the original tanks, the odd shape gives the fuel less area in the lower section than the middle. And a factory tank had less in the upper range too, so had non-linear reading sending units (see some of Chuck's discussions on this) while most aftermarket sending units change ohms in a linear fashion that's not conducive to an odd-shaped tank.
However, we do use BC's sending units when they're available, and sometimes they're custom made non-linear models (or used to be anyway) so unless that has changed, the Sherman might get a more consistently reading gauge. Assuming all the planets align and your almost-50-ish year old truck's electricals are still functioning.

Anyway, I know this was a couple of weeks ago, but this is my first time here in awhile (couldn't log on for a bit, then quit out of frustration) so thought I'd make up for it with a few extra paragraphs!

Paul

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WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM Mr. Green
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TonyNokes
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, Stan and I seem to have the same questions! I knocked my stock 50 year old tank loose on the Rubicon this year and now it is seeping fuel Crying or Very sad

So, who makes the best ~23 gallon tank? I have a 2" body lift and want to take advantage of that extra space. I know Sunset Metal Fab in Vernonia now makes the old NWMF tanks, so I might save on shipping.

It looks like there are two main tanks on the market; the Sherman and the NWMF/Sunset tanks. Bob in Albany also makes tanks but I have heard nothing about them.

I am leaning towards the Sherman from WH's (partially because Paul is so helpful/responsive) but shipping is a concern. Looking for comments

- Wild Horses = Sherman or NWMF/Sunset tanks
- Tom's = NWMF/Sunset tanks
- Bob's (All-for-fun) = Custom
- BC's = Sherman
- Aero = similar to Sherman mounting, welded on skid plate.

Thanks, Tony

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66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...
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DirtDonk
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Tony, thanks for the shout out.
The real downside to the Sunset for this discussion is that it still uses a strap. If you wheel hard enough to knock off a stock strap, you wheel hard enough to knock off a Sunset/NWMP tank. That's happened many times before, which is why many of us have gone away from that design.
However, if it's that much easier for you to get one, you can always modify the strap to work without the J-hook and be much more secure.

If you're not against a little tweaking, it can be as easy as welding a couple of weld-nuts into the frame, bending and drilling the strap, and voilá! No more yanked tanks.
Or at least not near as easy. That's what Jerry did to his tank because he kept mashing it on rocks and dropping it out on the trail.

The Sherman and Aero don't really have similar mounts, other than to say they bolt bolt to the frame. The Sherman remains adjustable to compensate for body lifts and such, whereas the Aero (which I also like very much by the way) is permanently set at a particular height of your choice when ordering, with welded on tabs.
You can ask for un-welded brackets, and then weld them on when you get the tank. This is handy if you have an unusual height body.
The Sherman can always be changed if something with the body is changed.

The Sunset has the most ground clearance of the three (or used to, assuming they have not made any changes) and needs it. The Aero is next, then the Sherman, but their relatively greater robustness (and maybe a skid plate too) is another bonus to their designs and does not generate any complaints that I ever remember hearing. You might dent one, but you won't drop it out due to a strap coming off.
The height adjustability can be even more handy, but it will almost always hang down a little bit more. Roughly 1/2" or so, and about 1.5" over the Sunset.
Skid plates are a good idea no matter who's tank you end up with.

If all of these are critical, and not one has what you need, then a true custom from All-4-Fun might be a good option. Depends on just how much customization you need to do, and how much they're willing to do I guess.

If you want max capacity and ground clearance is still a key factor, then either have the front of the tank bumped out to go under the crossmember, or settle for having it made smaller than 23 gallons. Maybe about 20 or so as a compromise? You won't gain much clearance for only 3 gallons I suppose, but every little bit helps.

And if you truly have the choice, and don't mind the additional added loss of capacity, have the fill tube extend into and down from the top of the tank. Should make filling more reliable and less chance of fuel expanding in a full tank and pumping out over your paint. This is not a big problem with aftermarket tanks for some reason (it should be) but it still happens.

Good luck!

Paul

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'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM Mr. Green
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Stan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All for Fun Bob said he could build me any size tank I wanted but would cost as much as one of the other vendors 23 gal one. I didn't verify but I assume it would use the factory style pickup tube/sending unit assembly.
I measured a rig that had a NWMF 23 gal tank and as close as I could tell at it's deepest part it hung down 3" more than my factory tank but tapered up and at the bumper area was only bout 1/2 " lower there.
Both rigs had 1" Body lifts so a 2" lift would certainly help yours Tony.
I think a 18 -20 gal tank would be 2" or so shallower ; I'd jump on it if that was the case.
I'm still thinking on it ; not as much as for the capacity - I still have the Aux tank - but because I was hoping it would fill easier and that also there would be less chance of the fuel expanding and running down the fender flare.
Stan

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regshawn
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stan, I went with the Aero tank with the weld on tabs as I have an odd lift/shim combo. It fits nice and snug and used my original filler tub. I liked it of over the Sherman (same and/or made by BC Bronco's) as it will hang lower then the Aero do to its design using uni-struts (hence the adjustability). You really cant go wrong with which ever one you decide as I don't see you wheeling in any rock gardens, but both offer an addition skid plate in case you decide to go rock crawling.
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