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NISSAN POWER STEERING UPGRADE
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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
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Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:30 pm    Post subject: NISSAN POWER STEERING UPGRADE Reply with quote

NISSAN POWER STEERING BOX UPGRADE

Finally bit the bullet and decided that the manual steering has to go. I crunched the numbers and realized that I could upgrade to power steering for a fraction of the cost of diet and exercise, besides gyms never have good beer anyway.

The Goods:

Power Steering gear box from a 1987 Nissan Pathfinder: $40.00
With the crazy metric banjo bolts, and about 4 inches of the lines running to them.
You should also grab the mounting bolts.

Lower Steering Shaft: $10.00
Nabbed from a 90 something Jeep Cherokee

Saginaw power steering pump: $20.00
The mounting bracket requires a die grinder to remove it from the pump.

Pitman Arm: $70.00
Superlift part #1108........you'll need to file out the index marks but she fits.

Hoses: $120.00
Gold Country Hydraulics, here in Chico, is going to weld standard fittings to the pressure line Banjo Bolt. The return line just needs to be ribbed.

Crankshaft and Waterpump pulleys 3 bolt crank ,4 Waterpump: $20.00 & Free
Found the water pump pulley at the wrecking yard and the Crank pulley at an engine shop being used as a pencil holder on the counter.

Saginaw Pump mounting and adjustment bracket for the 302: $100.00
Wild Horses

Upper Steering Shaft CV joint: $80.00
¾” round x 1” double D

New Alternator Belt NAPA 7380: $15.00

Power Steering Belt NAPA 7450: $15.00

Power Steering Fluid 1 gallon: $12.00
Never be caught short in the land of plenty. I think I used about 2 ½ quarts.

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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Step #1

Remove the old box:

I left the wheels on the ground, removed the radiator, fan shroud and fan before I started. I also pulled the water pump and crank pulleys.

To get the old box out you’ll need to loosen the sleeve that holds the lower steering shaft bearing in place. This is located near the firewall close to where the steering shaft enters the steering column tube. It’s a ½” nut and bolt. Loosen that up and slide it down about 3”.

Next you’ll want to go to the “Tulip joint” remove the clip that holds the rubber dust cover in place and slide that out of the way. You’ll see another ½” bolt that you loosen up to remove the steering shaft. Once you slide the shaft off lay it to the side.

Now you can crawl underneath.

You need to remove the draglink from the pitman arm and the pitman arm from the output shaft of the old box. You can use a puller or a BFH or a combination of the two. I even used a pipe wrench to get the nut off, the output shaft, that holds the pitman arm on.

Once all the steering linkage was removed I removed the box. I used a ½” drive with a ¾” socket and a ¾” wrench. Presoaking with “PB Blaster” is a good idea.



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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Step #2

Install the new box:

Be sure to test fit your pitman arm before you install the box to the frame. I had to file out the index marks on the output shaft and on the pitman arm.

The bottom two, of the existing, frame holes line up with the mounting holes in the Nissan Box. The upper back hole needs to be drilled. I mounted the box with the original Nissan bottom bolts and marked my top hole with a center punch. The problem is that there is reinforcing, for the stock hole, right where you need to drill through. It’s trial and error to get it right.

Once you get the hole drilled make sure all the bolts slip through their respective holes freely. I used the ones that I nabbed with the box; you’re going to dick them up and ruin the threads.

Pull the box back off and use the box as a template for your reinforcing plate that will go on the inside of the frame rail. Make sure the holes line up. I used 3/16” plate. Once your plate is in place tighten the bolts and move on.



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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Step #3

Lower Steering Shaft

I nabbed this little goody from a ’90 something Jeep Cherokee Yuppie mobile. The lower CV joint fits the Nissan box perfectly. The upper CV is about 1 ¼ “ so it has to be removed. I used a die grinder, a 4” angle grinder and a propane torch to remove the CV joint. With the CV joint removed you’ll be left with a shaft that will accept a 1” Double D. Tobias mount the “DD” portion of the new CV joint you’ll need to either weld or drill for set screws.

Take the lower steering shaft and install it the input shaft of the Nissan Box, you don’t need to tighten the bolt, you’ll take it off again. And again, and again and yet again.

With the lower shaft compressed, about midway through its travel, mark the Bronco shaft. I cut out about 21”. Here is a decision you have to make: do you want to cut and weld so close to your brake lines or do you want to remove the steering shaft altogether and cut and weld it on the bench. I opted for the latter and wished I had taken option 1. In either case once you get the lower steering shaft mounted you can button up your steering wheel and tighten the lower CV joint.



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Last edited by Formerjughead on Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Step #4

Mounting the Pump & Pulleys

I was able to nab a Saginaw pump from the wrecking yard. I have no idea what it came out of as it was laying on the floorboard of a chevy van.

I used the mounting and adjustment brackets from Wild Horses and mounted it according to their directions.

The critical part is making sure that the grooves in the water pump and crank pulleys line up and your belts run as straight as possible. There is no science or trickery involved, it just has to be right or it is wrong.

I will, undoubtedly, change out the “Sanford & Son” pulleys that I have at a later date.

Don’t forget to put the fan shroud on before you reinstall the radiator…..DOH!!!!

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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Step #5

Pitman Arm & Draglink

I did the TRO conversion using the 1 Ton Chevy Tie Rod and Draglink Ends. The size of the draglink ends prevented me from using the Nissan pitman arm. The pitman arm I found, which fit the best, was a “Superlift 1108 3”drop” intended for a 1980-91 Ford pick up with manual steering.

Now is a good time to jack up the front end and hold it there with some 6 ton jack stands.

The Nissan Box is 4 ½ turns lock to lock. Be sure that the box is “centered” at 2 ¼ turns and mount the pitman arm at about 1 O’clock (PST) on the output shaft, the tailgate is 12 O’clock(PST). Snug up the bolt, on the output shaft, and do the same for the drag link.

Get behind the wheel and check your travel going from lock to lock while someone watches for interference. Make any adjustments to the position of the pitman arm on the output shaft as needed. Once everything is good and you like how it feels tighten the bolts and replace the cotter pin in the drag link castle nut.



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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
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Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Step #6

Pressure & Return Lines

This proved to be the biggest headache. In the end I had standard fittings welded to the ends of the Nissan lines. I am sure this is not the only solution. I was able to find another Nissan that used a slip fitting for the return line. When you have the pressure line made up take the pump with you as you’ll need a fitting for the pump end as well. I had my line made at 24” and got an extra 24” piece for the return side.

Attach the pressure line to the pump first, just snug it up for now. The pressure line attaches to the rear inlet; considering that the input shaft is the front of the box.

On the box you’ll want to make sure that there is a crush washer on either side of the crazy banjo bolt and snug it in to the box. Once you are happy with the position tighten it up and do the same for the return line.






Step #7

Prime the Pump

Fill the pump reservoir to the absolute top and place the cap on.

With the engine off manually rotate the pulley on the power steering pump while cycling the steering from lock to lock. Do this about 20 times. Take the cap off and look at your fluid level. It should be at or below the “Cold Full” mark on the dip stick.

You can install the belts. I used a 48”, NAPA 7480, for the power steering and a 38 ½“, NAPA 7385, for the alternator.

Make sure your belts are seated and the bolts on the pulleys are tight.

Step #8

Pre Test

Disconnect the main coil wire and turn the engine over a few times just to make sure nothing crazy happens. It’s better to find a loose pulley or a frozen power steering pump now than when the engine is running.



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Remember: While resorting to violence is never the answer, starting off with violence almost always is.


Last edited by Formerjughead on Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Step #9

Success or Failure

Make sure that you have removed all of the tools, and extra nuts & bolts; you have left lying around the engine compartment and give everything one more check.

Reconnect the coil wire and check everything again.

Fire off the engine and let it run for a few minutes; from the safety of the cab.

Look and make sure everything is okay and there are no strange sounds.

Cycle the steering from lock to lock about a hundred times.

If the steering is not smooth or the pump sounds raspy you have the lines reversed.

Shut the engine off and check the fluid level in the power steering pump. If you removed the radiator check the coolant level and transmission fluid levels.

Drop it off the stands and check everything again.

The first drive will be strange, if you are converting from manual, be careful and go slow and easy. Take a trip around the block in both directions.

When you get back check everything again.

Happy Motoring

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Stan
BFix Locked and Loaded
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad the results turned out so well.
Makes you wonder what the hell the Frod engineers/ design team/ marketing strategy people were thinking when they didn't at leasr option PS sooner.
Stan

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regshawn
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Joined: 21 Jan 2006
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Location: Portland

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice to see you finally get it all put together! I bet there is a huge difference in your driving style now! I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here! Are you used to the new steering yet? Mr. Green

Shawn
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KManuel
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Joined: 13 Jan 2005
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Location: CapeCod MA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

regshawn wrote:
I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn


Who wrote it for you?

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'66 with 3.5" Duff lift, Disc Brakes, Family roll cage, 4X4X2 power steering, T/A 470 and maybe OBA.
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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KManuel wrote:
regshawn wrote:
I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn


Who wrote it for you?


Thats harsh............the kicker is that the power has been out, we just got it back at 4AM, 67 hours with no power. I wrote that running the computer off of my generator. Full MacGyver mode.

feeling much love for the steering. It even fixed the dancing ameter.......shortened that belt.

Brad

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Allen
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Joined: 15 Sep 2002
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Location: Las Vegas, Nevada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juggy,

NICE write-up! I may be using this option for my sons 66 build-up!

Thanks

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1970 Bronco, 5.0 SEFI/NV3550/dana 20, 5.5" total lift, 4whl PDB, Dana 44, BB 9", and alot more money!

1966 Bronco in a box

*When sending your wife down the road with a gas can, it is impolite to ask her to bring back beer too!
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billie
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This really should be put in the tech section.

Nice Job Juggie.

Cya

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regshawn
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KManuel wrote:
regshawn wrote:
I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn


Who wrote it for you?


So what are you trying to say!?

Shawn
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DirtDonk
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stan wrote:
Makes you wonder what the hell the Ford engineers/ design team/ marketing strategy people were thinking when they didn't at least option PS sooner.
Stan


The commitee spent all that time debating whether to go with the ram-assist power version or not.
If that's the case, I'm glad they waited!

Paul

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WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM Mr. Green
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bobb
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice write up!

It is good to know which parts fit with the Nissan steering box.
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KManuel
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

regshawn wrote:
KManuel wrote:
regshawn wrote:
I also must say that was a well put together and detailed thread you have here!

Shawn


Who wrote it for you?


So what are you trying to say!?

Shawn


MARINE=STRONG BACK WEAK MIND

speaking from experience.....

just busting his chops.

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regshawn
BFix Locked and Loaded
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I get it now. Thought you were taking a shot at me, but it all makes sense now.
And yes that is funny.

Shawn

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mkcj
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had this set-up in my 68 for over 10 years now works great never forget was talking to one of the bronco houses and they said I must be mistaken because a nissan p/s would never work in a bronco. Great write up by the way
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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
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Joined: 22 Nov 2004
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Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright time for an upgrade update addendum. One of the things I was never very happy with, on this set up, was the ease of steering and the tendancey for it to "follow cracks" and the quickness of the set up.

Brian Holcombe told me about a company in Connecticut "Mullins Steering Gears" that sold a pressure reducing valve kit for the Saginaw Power Steering Pump; $17.00 +$7.00 shipping.

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Cortez
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juggy - I'm in the process of making this conversion and am stuck on the pitman arm issue. Will the pitman that you used work with the stock drag link or is this the point I have to commit to upgrading my steering too now? Just trying to do the ps conversion and one thing at a time due to cost. By the way I have this conversion in the bag for about $250 depending on how this pitman comes together. What a huge savings over the catalog systems.
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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
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Joined: 22 Nov 2004
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Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cortez wrote:
Juggy - I'm in the process of making this conversion and am stuck on the pitman arm issue. Will the pitman that you used work with the stock drag link or is this the point I have to commit to upgrading my steering too now? Just trying to do the ps conversion and one thing at a time due to cost. By the way I have this conversion in the bag for about $250 depending on how this pitman comes together. What a huge savings over the catalog systems.


It should. The only reason I used that particular pitman arm was because I was anxious to get this together. I am sure that if I had spent a few more hours in the wrecking yard I could have found a flat one off a stock application..........72-84 manual steering 2wd (I think). There is also a Jeep pitman arm that will work "Starkypdx" has the answer for that app.

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carzaholics
Bfix "What's a Bronco?"
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:22 am    Post subject: you might need this repair manual Reply with quote

Hey Guys, I am new to this forum and throught I would try to contribute. If anyone is looking for reapir manuals, owner manuals or service manuals for virtually any type of car, there is a FREE ebook at the address below. I asked him could I download and share it, but he said he prefers to have people come to the website. The site itself isn't the best, Sometimes there are annoying ads and surveys. The ebook is only a couple of pages, but it gives a list of places online where you can find almost any service and repair manuals, even for very old models and trucks. I would highly recommend to download it and keep it on your computer.

Website - http://ebook-files.info/freemanuals/

All the best
Anton
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Formerjughead
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 22 Nov 2004
Posts: 2926
Location: Chico California

PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE

In my never ending quest to get this steering "right" changed out the pulley that was on the pump ( wich was 4 1/2" Diameter) and swapped it for a 6" diameter.....made a huge difference.

The next thing I did was remove the box and center the worm gear and set the lash. Although I thought I had done this before, it turns out that I was about 1/2 turn or 180 degrees from dead center.

All said and done it handles like my '07 F-150 now

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