Bronco Fix    
Bronco Fix    
 


Home   Gallery   Tech   Glove Box   For Sale
Chevy Tie Rod Conversion Info
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bronco Fix Forum Index :: Steering, Brakes, Wheels and Tires
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 08 Jan 2002
Posts: 651

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2002 8:13 am    Post subject: Chevy Tie Rod Conversion Info Reply with quote

My pics:
http://www.broncofix.com/quinn/scoutknuckle.html

Pete Wagner's pics:
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/graphics/tierod1.jpg
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/graphics/tierod2.jpg
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/graphics/tierod3.jpg

Coby's pics:
http://www.vintagebronco.com/coby/tierod/

Great pics from a guy using this setup on a Jeep Commanche pickup:
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_1.jpg shows tie rod height w/Scout knuckles
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_2.jpg
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_3.jpg

1) 1.375 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with 0.812" ID or smaller will work and you can also go to a larger OD for additional strength. It is not receommended to go beyond 1.50" OD though.

2) 1.5" .120 DOM for sleeving (optional and only works with 1.25" OD tubes)

3) Tie rod tube should be about 39" for stock early Bronco knuckles (41" for 76-77 disk knuckles) and drag link should be about 25.25" for high misalignment ends and 27" if using the tie
rod ends for the drag link). If using the F150 box and the high misalignment ends, then the drag link tube length should be 18.75".

4) 7/8" x 18 UNS special left and right hand taps
Travers Tool Co, Inc
14-056-182 (plug style)7/8-18 right hand $20.47
McMaster-Carr
2595A424 7/8-18 right hand $49
2595A999 7/8-18 left hand $108

5) Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=8ClassID=121SubclassID=565&ProductID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

6) Rod ends
-pass side tie rod (with hole and regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-driver side tie rod (regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-pass side drag link end (high misalignment)
-pitman arm side drag link end (high misalignment)

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end

Autozone Online Prices (1/26/04):
ES2233L $21.99 pass side tie rod (~7" exposed)
ES2234R $24.99 driver side tie rod (~2.5" exposed)
ES2027L $23.99 high angle drag link end (~4.5" exposed)
ES2026R $19.99 high angledrag link end (~6.5" exposed)

7) big end of the tie rod is .78" and the small end is around .67"

8) The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't. I searched high and low for the source for the jam nuts and have only come up with the Chevy part numbers which are 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand). They are about $7 each.


Last edited by venom on Sat Feb 03, 2007 9:09 am; edited 4 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
hest
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 801
Location: NorCal

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2002 11:06 am    Post subject: Chevy Tie Rod Conversion Info Reply with quote

Quinn-

Funny how Autozone's prices have dropped on a couple of those- proof that pricing isn't always subject to entropy, unlike my desk.

FWIW I paid less than $10 with tax at the local GM dealer for those nuts. Small town dealership and they didn't have them in stock, but they showed up the next day.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Broncmarc
BFix Starter
BFix Starter


Joined: 17 Jan 2002
Posts: 21
Location: Cincinnati, BroncOhio

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2002 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prices for the tie rod ends were cheaper here at Autozone. Total for all 4 was about $80.

Forget about the tapered reamer from Snap-On. It lasted me 2 holes! The Goodson one looks like the same thing. I was told later that these are finishing reamers. They are only ment to clean up a hole.. not to put the taper in it. I ended up searching all over town for someone that could ream my last 2 holes. Took me 2 weeks, but I found a guy with a welding shop in his garage that had them. Cost me and extra $40 to get those done. Don't forget that BC Broncos also sells the reamers. http://www.bcbroncos.com/ If I was doing it again, that's what I would get.

If you don't want to spend the $$$ on the taps, you can get the order the tubing already threaded from http://www.rockstomper.com/ Look under Rock Rods.

- Marc Reiter
Cincinnati, BroncOhio
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/
BroncOhio - http://www.broncohio.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
dngl
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 04 Jan 2002
Posts: 1059
Location: The Brooklyn Zoo

PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2002 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you sleeve one piece of tubing with another, is it best to match the OD of the inner with the ID of the outer, or does the outter have to be just a touch larger (or inner a touch smaller). If it is just a touch, how much of a touch? A .1X touch or a .01X touch?

I should have just bought these tie rod and drag links from Quinn. There is a penalty to be paid for stubbornness.

dngl

_________________
dngl
'74 "Weeble" -
'73 "Wobble"
'dngl "falls down"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
welndmn
BFix Built
BFix Built


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 152
Location: Livermore, CA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2002 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to Goodson, i have done about 4 trucks, some just moving it on top of the axle still cutting great, i just keep it really wet.

When i got my tie rods (moogs) some came with nuts some did not, they were around 8 bucks from GM, but Quinn has them as well, i had to wait 2 weeks for mine to come in

_________________
71 Lead Sled, 38's D44 NP435 and a thing that goes PSSSST
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Yahoo Messenger ICQ Number
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 08 Jan 2002
Posts: 651

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2002 5:55 pm    Post subject: Tie Rod Conversion Info Reply with quote

Dan, you will want to purchase a tube with about 0.005" bigger ID than the OD of the inner tube. If you don't, you will end up with a press fit to get the 2 pieces together. You may anyway due to the tube sections being slightly out of round or not quite straight. Personally, I think the 2 piece approach is a waste of time though. If you want 1.5" OD stuff, then buy it in the first place. It will be stronger than the sleeved approach and far easier (and cheaper) to put together.

And yes, you should have bought them from me. But look at how much you're learning!!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Broncrick
BFix Starter
BFix Starter


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 31
Location: Sacramento

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2002 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys, just finishing up a F100 box install. I am going to have to shorten the drag link I know (Rock Rod over), but the damn pitmans I have are tapered from the bottom (7* chebby), and I need to mount it over the arm on new box Crying or Very sad Hmm taper from the top and add inserts? get new arm? always something!
_________________
Rick Esterly, 69 EB
www.4x4wire.com
www.RCRC4X4.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
welndmn
BFix Built
BFix Built


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 152
Location: Livermore, CA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2002 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what you need rick?
Don't put the drag link on top of the pitarm, that makes the drag linkput a lot of force on the steering box when you flexing ( I know Sad ), get a new Pitman arm, the Full size cherokkes are close, the Bronco 2's and rangers are close as well, they might need some reaming out, if so you can use my reamer

_________________
71 Lead Sled, 38's D44 NP435 and a thing that goes PSSSST
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Yahoo Messenger ICQ Number
Broncrick
BFix Starter
BFix Starter


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 31
Location: Sacramento

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2002 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, looking at keeping my Trac/Drag in the same line, and getting things up out of harms way Very Happy I guess if I use a drop bracket for the trac (have it) I might achieve the same.... will have to look more at it.

Thanks~

_________________
Rick Esterly, 69 EB
www.4x4wire.com
www.RCRC4X4.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
IronBenderII
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 2063

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the prices I was just quoted...

ES2233L 19.99
ES2234R 25.99 (1)
ES2027L 17.99 (1)
ES2026R 19.99 (1)

$83.96 total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Bronchole
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd


Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 83
Location: Chatsworth, California

PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK guys,

I researched the living pissy out of this before jumping in and somehow still missed something. When I ream the F150 knuckles from the top for my Shuvy rod ends so that they sit in there at the right height the ream only goes about half way thru the knuckle! No one mentioned this in any of their postings or articles. WTF! I have seen the bushings that B.C. Broncos sells, but those are for using the F150 tie rod ends not the Shuvy stuff, and I think I would have to use a 5 reamer to use those bushings.

Please help me to figure this out quick, I am supposed to drive this thing in a X-mas parade this weekend and being able to steer it would be a plus.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
venom
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 08 Jan 2002
Posts: 651

PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So is the problem that you can't get the cotter pin through the tie rod end? Or is it that your reamer won't go big enough to let the tie rod end drop far enough into the steering arm? It is true that the different knuckles have different thickness steering arms. I think the F150 knuckles are a little thicker than the stock Bronco arms. What I've done is just run the reamer a little deeper into the arm. The tie rod ends don't need much flex at the steering arm so you can drop them into the arm as deep as you need. What I do is keep reaming until the cotter pin will just go through or until the main body of the tie rod end will hit the arm during flexing.

Take a deep breath, it will work just fine. I've helped a lot of people install this setup on a lot of different knuckles and it has always worked. Feel free to send me a pic to help explain what your particular problem is.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Bronchole
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd


Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Posts: 83
Location: Chatsworth, California

PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem is/was that when I ream the hole just enough to allow a cotter pin to be installed only about half of the tappered surface on the TRE will be incontact with the new tappered hole on the knuckle. This is due to the fact that the new taper only goes about half way thru the knuckle at this height. The first hole I overshot a bit (the housing of the TRE is only about 1/16" from the knuckle) and it still only has abou 2/3 of the surface engauged.

Solution:
Talked to Chuck at B.C. Broncos, although He is not crazy about this particular appliction it seems that he sells some sleeves that will allow me to get a full ream on the knuckle, insert this sleeve in to this hole and then insert the TRE in to this sleeve. at $18/sleeve its not the cheapest solution, but I am confident it is A correct one.

I'll post pics and information when this install has been proven and debugged. Thanks for the reply.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
meanjean
Bfix Rockin
Bfix Rockin


Joined: 29 May 2004
Posts: 444
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everyone says the Chevy TRE conv uses 1 ton parts. But isnt a 85 Blazer considered a half ton? For a TRE conv with chevy parts what years will work? Just 85 Blazer? Is the Blazer really that much stronger then stock EB TRE? No doubt its cheaper for a set up so cost alone may be advantageous. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. I dont want this to be a head ache and need to replace steering SOON!!!!
_________________
72 Bronco.
Now on the east coast Sad No Tillamook OHV here?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
SaddleUp
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 05 Apr 2004
Posts: 1966
Location: Vancouver, WA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

meanjean wrote:
Everyone says the Chevy TRE conv uses 1 ton parts. But isnt a 85 Blazer considered a half ton? For a TRE conv with chevy parts what years will work? Just 85 Blazer? Is the Blazer really that much stronger then stock EB TRE? No doubt its cheaper for a set up so cost alone may be advantageous. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. I dont want this to be a head ache and need to replace steering SOON!!!!
One look at the difference in the tie rods is convincing enough. They are at least twice the strength of the original EB stuff. My guess is that they were used on 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, and 1 ton Chevy trucks which is probably why it is referred to as the 1 ton Chevy stuff. That is all irregardles to me as it is quite obvious that my tie rods will now stand up to a lot more abuse than what was there before.

After a little more research I found that several of the 3/4 ton Chevy Trucks also use the same Tie Rods.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
meanjean
Bfix Rockin
Bfix Rockin


Joined: 29 May 2004
Posts: 444
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I bought 2 of the tir rod ends and they are almost twice the size Razz Good thing. Now I just have to get the rest and I will be on my way. Still have yet to talk with anyone who has done this with the F-100 2wd p/s set up. Where there is a will there is a way.
_________________
72 Bronco.
Now on the east coast Sad No Tillamook OHV here?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
meanjean
Bfix Rockin
Bfix Rockin


Joined: 29 May 2004
Posts: 444
Location: Williamsburg, Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So can you use any tube or pipe for this? Or just DOM? DOM is harder to find in the wall thickness everyones talking about.
_________________
72 Bronco.
Now on the east coast Sad No Tillamook OHV here?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
SaddleUp
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 05 Apr 2004
Posts: 1966
Location: Vancouver, WA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have Quinn Dusenberry make them for you. (Venom in the original post in this thread) As far as I know he still keeps the right Dom on hand and he also sells the right Jam nuts. I might have been able to save a few bucks doing it myself but by the time I bought the taps it wouldn't have been much.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
rcs72
Bfix "What's a Bronco?"
Bfix


Joined: 11 May 2005
Posts: 3
Location: Fremont,CA

PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 4:08 pm    Post subject: Jam Nuts Reply with quote

Any idea where else to find the jam nuts? I went to my local Chevy dealer today and they said that they were discontinued.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
SaddleUp
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 05 Apr 2004
Posts: 1966
Location: Vancouver, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 5:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Jam Nuts Reply with quote

rcs72 wrote:
Any idea where else to find the jam nuts? I went to my local Chevy dealer today and they said that they were discontinued.
Did you check with Quinn already? See my post directly above yours.
_________________
Check out the new Early Bronco Trail Covers at http://BroncoCovers.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
hest
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 801
Location: NorCal

PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2005 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Complete Offroad, near the bottom of this page: http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/c-23_tie_rods__drag_links_and_tools.html

I don't think Quinn is doing tie rods anymore. Complete Offroad is selling the Chevy TRO setup, near the top of the linked page.

_________________
1970 Bronco
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tonto
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd


Joined: 30 Sep 2002
Posts: 73
Location: Redondo Beach, CA.

PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2005 1:54 am    Post subject: Re: Jam Nuts Reply with quote

rcs72 wrote:
Any idea where else to find the jam nuts? I went to my local Chevy dealer today and they said that they were discontinued.


http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.php

_________________
68 Bronco, 5.8 F.I., AOD, 3.8 Atlas II, Fullwidth Hi-Pin D-60 & 9", 5.13 R&P, 17X8 Allied Beadlocks w/4.5"B.S., Tires: 37X17 BFG/KM's /KX's, Fox Rez Shox's, 4-LINK REAR W/3"x14"King Coilovers, BC 2.5" front coils
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
TonyNokes
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 18 Mar 2002
Posts: 536
Location: Portland, Oregon

PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am working on doing the Chevy TRO with the F150 2x4 box. The question I have is in regards to the Track Bar mount. I have to remove the upper drop bracket and change it on the axle. I am not a big fan of the rasied axle mount because it places quite a lever arm on the axle tube. So, I found the solution at SOB last year (see picture) on two different Broncos. Anyone know who's idea this is or more on how to do it?

It looks like a great solution as it gives you a long track bar, good clearence to the oil pan and a strong mounting point.

Thanks, Tony



trackbar lower mount.jpg.jpg
 Description:
 Filesize:  143.04 KB
 Viewed:  50795 Time(s)

trackbar lower mount.jpg.jpg



trackbar lower mount2.jpg.jpg
 Description:
 Filesize:  150.06 KB
 Viewed:  50795 Time(s)

trackbar lower mount2.jpg.jpg



_________________
66' 5.8L SEFI Super Charged, 4R70W, 4.88, 35" BFG's. Hydroboost, D44 w/trac-lock, HD axles. 9" w/ARB, Dutchman axles, Trusses and Lincoln disks all around, F150 PS, factory PTO winch & bumper, 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body, 14" 7100's Bilstiens, CAGE arms & springs, TRO, OBA, Yorkston Trackbar conversion, 3 fuel tanks...


Last edited by TonyNokes on Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Captain Air Time
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 07 Jan 2002
Posts: 1218
Location: Campbell River BC

PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trucks are Jim Creel's 'Nightmare' and Gary Yorston's tube/fiberglass truck. housings/mounts/etc are a creation of Gary's.
_________________
I'm on my way to impact
Taste the high speed dirt!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Doyle
Bfix Carb'd
Bfix Carb'd


Joined: 06 Jun 2006
Posts: 104
Location: East Tennessee

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a minimum lift required to do this as a tie rod over? I have 78 Big bronco knuckles which have the arms lower than the Early Bronco knuckles. Is there a minimum angle from tie rod to drag link?
_________________
73 Bronco Ranger, 302, 3 speed floor shift, twin-sticked Dana 20, disk conversion (78 knuckles, caliper brackets, T-bird calipers), Power brake conversion, Warflares (extreme install) 12.50 x 35 Mudkings on 10 x 15s, 2" x 6" box tube rockers, home built bumpers.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bronco Fix Forum Index :: Steering, Brakes, Wheels and Tires All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum

Brought to you by The Bronco Horde and Vintage Bronco